The lands of silence : $b A history of Arctic and Antarctic explorationMarkham, Clements R. (Clements Robert), Sir
History
The lands of silence : $b A history of Arctic and Antarctic exploration
Markham, Clements R. (Clements Robert), Sir
Polar regions -- Discovery and exploration
Payer describes the lands seen from Austria Sound as covered with
fields of ice, while rows of basaltic columns, rising tier above tier,
stand out as if crystallized, but the natural colour of the rock is
not visible, even the steepest walls of rock being covered with ice.
The mountains are table-shaped and rise to heights of from 2000 to
3000 feet, and the predominating formation resembles the dolerite of
Greenland, though coarser grained and of a dark yellowish-green colour.
Payer also observed terraced beaches covered with débris containing
organic remains. The small snow-covered islets reached by Nansen from
the north are composed of a coarse-grained basalt. The western half
of the Franz Josef group was more thoroughly explored by Jackson and
Armitage, with the aid of their able and accomplished companions,
during four summers and three winter seasons 1894–97.
Dr Koettlitz, the geologist of Mr Jackson’s expedition, from the
results of three years of observation combined with the reports of
Payer and Leigh Smith, has been able to give a fairly good general view
of the past history and present appearance of the Franz Josef group. He
looks upon the numerous islands as the fragments of an old table-land,
doubtless connected with other lands from which it is now separated by
wide seas, and he places the existence of this continental land in the
Jurassic period. But the principal feature of the group, as was also
observed by Payer, is the basalt or the dolerite of which the plateau
formation consists. This basaltic rock formation is from 500 to 600
feet in perpendicular height, and Dr Koettlitz dates it from Jurassic
times; in which case all strata that may have been laid down after this
period have disappeared through denudation, or are buried under the ice
sheets. When the hills were clothed with those plants of the Jurassic
age which have been recognised among the fossils that have been brought
home, the climate must have been mild and genial, and the land was
connected with Spitsbergen.
The present flora of Franz Josef Land is almost confined to terraces
or slopes with a southern aspect, and is poor as compared with that
of Spitsbergen. But it gives some little colouring to the dreary
summer landscape, and in the neighbourhood of loomeries there are many
bright-coloured mosses[141].
There are very few mammals on these desolate islands. Polar bears,
however, frequent the neighbouring floes in considerable numbers, and
wander about all the winter. The Austrians shot over 60, Nansen 19,
and 120 were seen by the Jackson-Harmsworth expedition. The Arctic
hare was not met with, and foxes were very rarely seen at “Elmwood,”
though they made themselves at home at Nansen’s winter quarters. Bones
and antlers of deer were found on the raised beaches, and it is not
easy to account for their presence. They might possibly have come with
drift-wood. White whales, narwhals, and three kinds of seals were seen,
and walruses were abundant[142].
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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