The Lands of the Saracen: Pictures of Palestine, Asia Minor, Sicily, and SpainTaylor, Bayard
History
The Lands of the Saracen: Pictures of Palestine, Asia Minor, Sicily, and Spain
Taylor, Bayard
Middle East -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
Towards night we descended from the hills upon the Plain of Keftin, which
stretches south-westward from Aleppo, till the mountain-streams which
fertilize it are dried up, when it is merged into the Syrian Desert. Its
northern edge, along which we travelled, is covered with fields of wheat,
cotton, and castor-beans. We stopped all night at a village called Taireb,
planted at the foot of a tumulus, older than tradition. The people were
in great dread of the Aneyzeh Arabs, who come in from the Desert to
destroy their harvests and carry off their cattle. They wanted us to take
a guard, but after our experience on the Anti-Lebanon, we felt safer
without one.
Yesterday we travelled for seven hours over a wide, rolling country, now
waste and barren, but formerly covered with wealth and supporting an
abundant population, evidences of which are found in the buildings
everywhere scattered over the hills. On and on we toiled in the heat, over
this inhospitable wilderness, and though we knew Aleppo must be very near,
yet we could see neither sign of cultivation nor inhabitants. Finally,
about three o'clock, the top of a line of shattered wall and the points of
some minarets issued out of the earth, several miles in front of us, and
on climbing a glaring chalky ridge, the renowned city burst at once upon
our view. It filled a wide hollow or basin among the white hills, against
which its whiter houses and domes glimmered for miles, in the dead, dreary
heat of the afternoon, scarcely relieved by the narrow belt of gardens on
the nearer side, or the orchards of pistachio trees beyond. In the centre
of the city rose a steep, abrupt mound, crowned with the remains of the
ancient citadel, and shining minarets shot up, singly or in clusters,
around its base. The prevailing hue of the landscape was a whitish-gray,
and the long, stately city and long, monotonous hills, gleamed with equal
brilliancy under a sky of cloudless and intense blue. This singular
monotony of coloring gave a wonderful effect to the view, which is one of
the most remarkable in all the Orient.
Chapter XV.
Life in Aleppo.
Our Entry into Aleppo--We are conducted to a House--Our Unexpected
Welcome--The Mystery Explained--Aleppo--Its Name--Its Situation--The
Trade of Aleppo--The Christians--The Revolt of 1850--Present Appearance
of the City--Visit to Osman Pasha--The Citadel--View from the
Battlements--Society in Aleppo--Etiquette and Costume--Jewish Marriage
Festivities--A Christian Marriage Procession--Ride around the
Town--Nightingales--The Aleppo Button--A Hospital for Cats--Ferhat
Pasha.
Aleppo, _Tuesday, June_ 8, 1852.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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