The Lands of the Tamed Turk; or, the Balkan States of to-day: A narrative of travel through Servia, Bulgaria, Montenegro, Dalmatia and the recently acquired Austrian provinces of Bosnia and the Herzegovina; with observations of the peoples, their races, creeds, institutions and politics, and of the geographical, historical and commercial aspects of the several countriesJaekel, Blair
History
The Lands of the Tamed Turk; or, the Balkan States of to-day: A narrative of travel through Servia, Bulgaria, Montenegro, Dalmatia and the recently acquired Austrian provinces of Bosnia and the Herzegovina; with observations of the peoples, their races, creeds, institutions and politics, and of the geographical, historical and commercial aspects of the several countries
Jaekel, Blair
Balkan Peninsula
Founded by Illyrian fugitives from the capital, Delminium, after the
latter’s destruction by the Romans during the second Dalmatian war,
Salona was taken in 117 B. C. by Cæcilius Metellus and made a Roman
colony. The city was long and narrow and divided into halves by a
sort of diaphragm wall, in the middle point of which was an arched
portal called Cæsar’s Gate. Through the central arch of this gate the
Roman chariots passed and, although the arches themselves have tumbled
you may, as in Pompeii, still see the grooves and ruts in the stone
pavement worn deep by the passage of many wheels. A smaller arch on
either side allowed for the accommodation of pedestrians. The large
Christian basilica, partly excavated in 1880, was demolished in 639
during the final destruction of the city by the Avars. A circular
baptistry, with its columned portico facing the south and which marked
the entrance, stood within the walls in the eastern part of the city.
In the centre of this building, under the dome and sunk in the floor,
was a marble fount for baptism by immersion, and from its level arose a
complete circle of marble steps; at the top, an aisle with columns on
either side passed around the interior of the building.
[Illustration: THE RUINS OF THE BASILICA, SALONA.]
At the western end of the city can be seen the ruins of the large
amphitheatre, and it is probable that this was the only building
which survived the devastating fire of the Avars. At different points
along the circuit of the walls, which had been battered down time and
again and repaired as often, stood no less than eighty-eight towers,
having been constructed to reinforce the stone-work. The remains of
forty-three of these towers are plainly visible. By scraping away the
dust with the toe of your shoe, ornate examples of mosaic decorations
can still be distinguished on the floors over which the buildings
stood, and some of the Roman sweat-baths have been preserved almost
intact; the ancient methods of producing their heated vapours may be
solved easily. At one point within the walls was discovered a trench
holding fourteen sarcophagi lying end to end in a long row. Of these
several have been transferred to the museums. When found, all had been
opened and it was impossible to distinguish to whom they belonged,
because only two bore inscriptions, one Christian and one Pagan.
On a slight hill back of the ruined city stands the little stone house
of the care-taker, embellished with cut-stone work from the buildings
of old Salona. In the garden, at the rear, a Roman pergola has been
restored in its entirety and over it climbs a rose-vine covered with
blooming red ramblers—an attractive modern adaptation of an ancient
Roman decorative feature.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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