Beijing (China) -- Description and travel; Beijing (China) -- History -- Siege, 1900
At the rear of an immense court stands a new building, where by the
light of the torches we read the astonishing inscription, "Parisiana
of Y-Tchou." "Parisiana" in this ultra-Chinese town, which until the
previous autumn had never seen a European approach its walls! Our
bearers stop there, and we find it is a theatre improvised this winter
by our sixty soldiers to help pass away the glacial evenings.
I had promised to assist at a gala performance given for me by these
grown-up children this evening. And of all the charming receptions that
have been tendered me here and there all over the world, none has
moved me more than this one arranged by a few soldiers exiled in a lost
corner of China. Their reserved smiles of welcome, the few words one of
them undertook to say for all, were more touching than any banquet or
formal address, and I was glad to press the hands of the brave soldiers
who dared not offer them.
In order that I might have a souvenir of their evening's hospitality at
Y-Tchou, they got up a subscription and presented me with a very local
gift,--one of those red silk parasols with long falling draperies,
which it is the custom in China to carry in front of men of mark. And
cumbrous as the thing is, even when folded, it is needless to say that
I shall take it with great care to France.
They next gave me an illustrated programme, on which the name of each
actor figured, followed by a pompous title,--"Monsieur the soldier
so-and-so of the Comédie-Française," or "Monsieur the corporal
so-and-so of the Théâtre Sarah-Bernhardt." We take our places. It is a
real theatre that they have made, with a raised stage, scenery, and a
curtain.
In the Chinese arm-chairs, which are placed in the first row, their
captain is seated next to me; then come the mandarin, the prince of
the blood, and two or three other notables, with long queues. Behind
us are the under-officers and the soldiers; several yellow babies in
ceremonial toilettes mingle familiarly with them, even climbing up on
their knees. They are pupils from their school. For they have started a
school, like the one at Laï-Chou-Chien, to teach French to the children
of the neighborhood. A sergeant presented me to an inimitable youngster
of not more than six, dressed for the occasion in a beautiful gown, his
little short, thick queue tied with red silk, who recited for me the
beginning of "Maître corbeau sur un arbre perché," in a deep voice,
rolling his eyes to the ceiling the while.
Three taps and the curtain rises. First comes a farce, by I know not
whom, but certainly much retouched by themselves with an unexpected
turn of wit which is irresistible. The ladies, the mothers-in-law, with
false hair made of oakum, are indescribable. Then more comic scenes and
songs from the "Black Cat." The Chinese guests on their throne-like
chairs remain as impassive as the Buddhas of the pagodas. What do their
Asiatic brains make of all this French gaiety?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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