Beijing (China) -- Description and travel; Beijing (China) -- History -- Siege, 1900
Near by there are a few pointed-topped hills, queerly shaped, with
occasionally an old tower perched on the summit,--the ten or twelve
storied kind, which at once give the landscape a Chinese look, with
superimposed roofs, curved up like dogs' ears, at the corners, with an
Æolian harp at each end.
The air is growing purer; the cloud of dust is left behind as we
approach the unquestionably privileged region which has been selected
for the repose of the celestial emperors and empresses.
We stop at a village, after about a dozen kilometres, to take breakfast
with a great prince of much higher rank than the one who rides with
us. He is a direct uncle of the Emperor, in disgrace with the Empress,
whose favorite he has been, and now entrusted with the guardianship of
the tombs. As he is in deep mourning, he is dressed in cotton like the
poor, and yet does not resemble them. He makes excuses for receiving
us in a dilapidated old house, his own Yamen having been burned by
the Germans, and offers us a very Chinese breakfast, where reappear
the sharks' wings and hinds' nerves. The flat-faced peasants of the
neighborhood peer at us in the meantime through the numerous holes in
the rice-paper window-panes.
We remount at once, after the last cup of tea, to visit the tombs
toward which we have been journeying for three days, and which are
now very near. My confrère of the Pekin Academy, with his big, round
spectacles and his little bird-like body completely lost in his
beautiful silken robes, has rejoined us, and slowly follows along upon
a mule.
A more and more solitary country. No more villages, no more fields! The
road winds along among the hills,--which are covered with grass and
flowers,--surprising and enchanting our unaccustomed eyes. It seems
like a glimpse of Eden after the dusty-gray China we have come through,
where the only green thing was the wheat. The perpetual dust of
Petchili has been left behind; but on the plain below we still perceive
it, like a fog from which we have escaped.
We continue to mount, and soon arrive at the first spurs of the
Mongolian range. Here behind a wall of earth we find an immense Tartar
camp, at least two thousand men, armed with lances, bows, and arrows,
guard of honor of the defunct rulers.
Once more we see a clear horizon, the very memory of which had faded.
It seems as though these Mongolian mountains suddenly huddled together
as though they had all pressed forward; very rocky they are, with
strange outlines, peaks like turrets or pagoda-towers rising above
us,--all of a beautiful purple iris effect.
Ahead of us we begin to see on all sides wooded valleys and forests of
cedar. True, they are artificial forests, although very old,--planted
centuries ago for this funeral park, covering an area twenty miles in
circumference, where four Tartar emperors sleep.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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