Beijing (China) -- Description and travel; Beijing (China) -- History -- Siege, 1900
In the foreground, at the entrance to the Marble Bridge, the great Arc
de Triomphe of China, resplendent with gilding, shines out against
the evening sky, its values all emphasized by a profusion of lights.
Then the bridge across the lake is much lighted, although it seems
luminous itself in its eternal whiteness. In the distance the whole
phantasmagoria--empty palaces and pagodas--emerges from the obscurity
of the trees, and is reflected in the water in lines of fire.
Our five hundred guests are scattered about in sympathetic groups on
the borders of the lake beneath the spring-like verdure of the willows,
along the Marble Bridge or in the imperial gondolas. As they come down
from the terrace they are given gaily decorated lanterns on little
sticks, so that after a time these balls of color, scattered along the
paths, seem from a distance like a company of glow-worms.
From where I stand women in light evening wraps may be seen on the
arms of officers, crossing the white paving-stones of the bridge, or
seated in the stern of the long imperial barques, softly propelled by
the oarsmen. How strange it seems to see these Europeans, almost all
of whom underwent the tortures of the siege, walking quietly about
in dinner dress in the retreat of the sovereigns who had secretly
conspired to kill them!
Decidedly the place has lost all its horrors; there is so much light,
so many people, so many soldiers, that all the vague forms of ghosts
and evil spirits have been driven away for the night.
Something like approaching thunder is heard in the distance, which
proves to be the noise of about fifty tambourines announcing the
arrival of the procession. It was to form at the Yellow Gate, so as
to follow the line of the new avenue, and to disband at the foot of
the Rotunda Palace. The lights of the first division appear at the
entrance of the Marble Bridge, and begin to cross its magnificent white
archway. Cavalry, infantry, and music, all seem to be rolling on in our
direction, with enough noise from the brasses and the tambourines to
make the sepulchral walls of the Violet City tremble, while above the
heads of the thousands of soldiers groups and rows of extravagantly
Chinese colored lanterns are swinging to the movement of the horses'
hoofs or to the rhythm of human shoulders.
The troops have passed, but the procession is not nearly over. A sharp,
delirious noise that gets on one's nerves follows the marches played
by our musicians,--the noise of gongs, zithers, cymbals, bells. At the
same time gigantic green and yellow banners, curiously slashed and
of unusual proportions, begin to appear on the Marble Bridge, borne
by an advancing company of tall, slender persons, with astonishing
underpinnings, who are swinging along like bears. They prove to be my
stilt-walkers from Y-Tchou and from Laï-Chou-Chien from the vicinity
of the tombs, who have taken a three or four days' journey in order to
participate in this French fête!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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