Beijing (China) -- Description and travel; Beijing (China) -- History -- Siege, 1900
On either side of the white steps leading to the sanctuary, blocks of
marble are arranged in the form of a tam-tam. These are so old as to
make one's head swim; and upon them maxims intelligible only to a few
erudite mandarins have been written in primitive Chinese characters,
in letters contemporary with and sisters to the hieroglyphs of Egypt.
This is the temple of disinterestedness, of abstract thought, and of
cold speculation. One is struck at once by its absolute simplicity,
for which, up to this point, nothing in China has prepared us. Very
large, very high as to ceilings, very grand and of a uniform blood-red
color, it is magnificently empty and supremely quiet. The columns and
walls are red, with a few discreet decorations in gold, dimmed by time
and dust. In the centre is a bouquet of gigantic lotus in a colossal
vase, and that is all. After the profusion, the debauch of monsters
and idols, the multiplication of human and animal forms in the usual
Chinese pagoda, this absence of figures of any sort is a comfort and a
relief.
In the niches all along the wall there are stele, red like the rest of
the place, and consecrated to the memory of persons still more eminent
than those of the entrance court, with quotations from their writings
carved upon them. The stele of Confucius himself, which is larger than
the others, and has longer quotations, occupies the position of honor
in the centre of this severe Pantheon, and is placed on a kind of altar.
Properly speaking, this is not a temple; it is not a place for
prayer or service. It is rather an academy, a meeting-place for calm,
philosophic discussion. In spite of its dust and its abandoned air, it
seems that newly elected members of the Academy of Pekin (which is even
more than our own the conservator of form and ceremony, I am assured)
are still bound to give a conference here.
Besides various maxims of renunciation and wisdom written from top
to bottom of the stele, Confucius has left to this sanctuary certain
thoughts on literature which have been engraved in letters of gold in
such a way as to form pictures hung on the walls.
Here is one which I transcribe for young western scholars who are
preoccupied with classification and inquiry. They will find in it a
reply twice two thousand years old to one of their favorite questions:
"The literature of the future will be the literature of compassion."
* * * * *
It is almost five o'clock when the gloomy, red, autumn sun goes down
behind great China on Europe's side, and we leave the temples and the
grove behind. I separate from my companions, for they live in the
legation quarter in the southern part of the Tartar City, while I go to
the Imperial City, far from here.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account