Beijing (China) -- Description and travel; Beijing (China) -- History -- Siege, 1900
In these times of weakness and mediocrity, when nothing is sacred and
the future is full of fear, happy are they who are cut down where
they stand; happy are they who, young and pure, fall for the sake of
adorable dreams of country and of honor, who are borne away wrapped in
the modest flag of their country and greeted as soldiers with simple
words that bring tears to the eyes.
VI
PEKIN IN SPRINGTIME
I
THURSDAY, April 18, 1901.
The terrible Chinese winter which has pursued us for four months in
this ice-filled gulf of Pekin is over, and here we are again at our
wretched post, having returned with the spring to the thick and yellow
waters at the mouth of the Pei-Ho.
To-day wireless telegraphy, by a series of imperceptible vibrations
gathered at the top of the _Redoutable's_ mast, informs us that the
palace of the Empress, occupied by Field-Marshal von Waldersee, was
burned last night, and that the German chief-of-staff perished in the
flames.
We were the only ones of all the allied squadrons who received this
notice, and the admiral at once ordered me to depart for Pekin to offer
his condolences, and to represent him at the funeral ceremonies.
[Illustration: THE MOUTH OF THE PEI-HO]
There was just twenty-five minutes for my preparations, for the packing
of luggage, great and small; for the boat which must take me ashore
cannot wait without risk of missing the tide, and so being unable to
cross the bar of the river to-night. At the end of an hour my foot is
on the soil of horrible Taku, near the French quarter, where I must
spend the night.
FRIDAY, April 19.
The railway destroyed by the Boxers has been rebuilt, and the train
which I take this morning goes straight to Pekin, arriving there about
four o'clock this afternoon,--a rapid and commonplace journey, very
different from the one I made at the beginning of winter by junk and on
horseback.
The spring rains have not begun; the chill verdure of May, the sorghos
and the young willows, later than they are in our climate, emerge with
great difficulty from the dry soil and cast a hesitating shadow upon
the Chinese plains, powdered with gray dust and burned by an already
torrid sun.
And how different is the appearance of Pekin! The first time we
approached it, not by the superhuman ramparts of the Tartar City, but
by those of the Chinese City, less imposing and less sombre.
To my surprise the train passes right through a fresh breach in
the wall, enters the heart of the town, and lands one at the door
of the Temple of Heaven. It seems that it is the same with the line
from Pao-Ting-Fou; the Babylonian enclosure has been pierced, and
the railroad enters Pekin and comes to an end only at the imperial
quarters. What unheard-of changes the Celestial Emperor will find if he
ever returns!--locomotives whistling and running right through this old
capital of stability and decay.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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