Beijing (China) -- Description and travel; Beijing (China) -- History -- Siege, 1900
A stop is made at a dark pagoda, where the coffin is temporarily left.
This pagoda is so surrounded with foliage that it seems at first as
though one were simply entering a garden of cedars, willows, and white
lilacs; but soon the eye distinguishes behind and above this verdure
other rarer and more magnificent foliage, carved by the Chinese for
their gods in the form of clusters of maple or of bamboo, which form
under the ceiling a high arbor of gold.
And here this curious funeral comes to an end. The groups divide,
sorting themselves according to nations, and soon disperse among the
hot wooded walks in the direction of their various palaces.
* * * * *
The setting of the Yellow City seems vaster, more extensive than
ever in the April light. One is bewildered by so much artificiality.
How marvellous the genius of these people has been! To have created
bodily, in the midst of an arid plain, a lifeless desert, a city twenty
leagues in circumference, with aqueducts, woods, rivers, mountains,
and lakes! To have created forest distances and watery horizons, to
give their sovereigns illusions of freshness! And to have enclosed
all this,--which in itself is so large that one cannot see its
boundaries,--to have separated it from the rest of the world, to have
sequestered it, if one may use the word, behind such formidable walls!
What their most audacious architects have not been able to create, nor
their proudest emperors, is a real springtime in this parched land,--a
spring like ours, with its warm rains and its tremendously rapid growth
of grass, ferns, and flowers. Here there is no turf, no moss, no
odorous hay; the springtime resurrection is indicated here by the thin
foliage on the willows, by tufts of grass here and there, or by the
blossoming of a sort of purple gillyflower that springs up out of the
dusty soil. It rains only in June, and then there is a deluge flooding
all things.
* * * * *
Poor Yellow City, where we walk this morning, meeting so many people,
so many armed detachments, so many uniforms; poor Yellow City, closed
to the world for so many centuries, an inviolable refuge for the rites
and mysteries of the past; city of splendor, oppression, and silence!
When I saw it in the autumn it had an air of desertion which suited it;
but now I find it overrun by the soldiers of all Europe. In all the
palaces and golden pagodas "barbarian" troopers drag their swords or
groom their horses under the very noses of the great dreamy Buddhas.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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