The last frontier : $b The white man's war for civilisation in AfricaPowell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
History
The last frontier : $b The white man's war for civilisation in Africa
Powell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
Africa; Africa -- Colonization
Built on a stretch of sun-baked sand, between a miasmal jungle and the
sea, Beira is the hottest and unhealthiest place in all East Africa.
“It is one of the places that the Lord has overlooked,” remarked
a sallow-faced resident, as he took his hourly dose of quinine.
Even the paid-to-be-enthusiastic author of the steamship company's
glowing booklet hesitates at depicting this fever-haunted, sun-baked,
sand-suffocated seaport of Mozambique, contenting himself with the
noncommittal statement that “it is indescribable; it is just Beira.”
The town has but three attractions: a broad-verandaed hotel where
they charge you forty cents for a lemonade with no ice in it; a golf
course, laid out by a newly arrived Englishman, who died of sunstroke
the first day he played on it; and a trolley system which makes every
resident the owner of his own street-car. The heat in Beira being
too great to permit of walking—a shaded thermometer not infrequently
climbs to one hundred and twenty degrees; the streets being too deep
in sand for the use of vehicles; and the tsetse-fly killing off horses
in a few days, those European traders and officials who are condemned
to dwell in Beira get about in “trolleys” of their own. These
two-seated, hooded conveyances, which are a sort of cross between a
hand-car, a baby-carriage, and the wheeled chairs on the board walk at
Atlantic City, are pushed by half-naked and perspiring natives over
a track which extends from one end of the town to the other and with
sidings into every man's front yard. It struck me, however, that the
most interesting things in Beira were the corrugated-iron shanty and
the stretch of wooden platform which mark the terminus of the railway,
and from which, in answer to my anxious queries, I was assured that a
train departed twice weekly for Salisbury, the capital of Rhodesia. I
used to sit on the veranda of the hotel and stare across the stretch
of burning sand at that wretched station as longingly as the small boy
stares at the red numeral on the calendar which indicates the Fourth
of July.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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