The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume I (of 2), 1866-1868Livingstone, David
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The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume I (of 2), 1866-1868
Livingstone, David
Africa, Central -- Description and travel
I travelled in Lunda, when the sponges were all supersaturated. The
grassy sward was so lifted up that it was separated into patches or
tufts, and if the foot missed the row of tufts of this wiry grass
which formed the native path, down one plumped up to the thigh in
slush. At that time we could cross the sponge only by the native
paths, and the central burn only where they had placed bridges:
elsewhere they were impassable, as they poured off the waters of
inundation: our oxen were generally bogged--all four legs went down up
to the body at once. When they saw the clear sandy bottom of the
central burn they readily went in, but usually plunged right over
head, leaving their tail up in the air to show the nervous shock they
had sustained.
These sponges are a serious matter in travelling. I crossed the
twenty-nine already mentioned at the end of the fourth month of the
dry season, and the central burns seemed then to have suffered no
diminution: they were then from calf to waist deep, and required from
fifteen to forty minutes in crossing; they had many deep holes in the
paths, and when one plumps therein every muscle in the frame receives
a painful jerk. When past the stream, and apparently on partially dry
ground, one may jog in a foot or more, and receive a squirt of black
mud up the thighs: it is only when you reach the trees and are off the
sour land that you feel secure from mud and leeches. As one has to
strip the lower part of the person in order to ford them, I found that
often four were as many as we could cross in a day. Looking up these
sponges a bird's-eye view would closely resemble the lichen-like
vegetation of frost on window panes; or that vegetation in
Canada-balsam which mad philosophical instrument makers _will_ put
between the lenses of the object-glasses of our telescopes. The flat,
or nearly flat, tops of the subtending and transverse ridges of this
central country give rise to a great many: I crossed twenty-nine, a
few of the feeders of Bangweolo, in thirty miles of latitude in one
direction. Burns are literally innumerable: rising on the ridges, or
as I formerly termed them mounds, they are undoubtedly the primary or
ultimate sources of the Zambezi, Congo, and Nile: by their union are
formed streams of from thirty to eighty or 100 yards broad, and always
deep enough to require either canoes or bridges. These I propose to
call the secondary sources, and as in the case of the Nile they are
drawn off by three lines of drainage, they become the head waters (the
_caput_ Nili) of the river of Egypt.
Thanks to that all-embracing Providence, which has watched over and
enabled me to discover what I have done. There is still much to do,
and if health and protection be granted I shall make a complete thing
of it.
[Then he adds in a note a little further on:--]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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