The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of ExplorationBuchan, John
History
The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of Exploration
Buchan, John
Discoveries in geography; Explorers
The part selected was the southern coast of the Dutch territory, and
it was Captain Rawling's hope that they would be able to penetrate to
that belt of snow mountains, at the head of the coastal rivers,
running from the Nassau Range in the west to Wilhelmina Peak in the
east, where Dr. Lorentz had been the pioneer. Obviously it was vital
to find a river which would take them direct to the hills. But they
had no previous information to go upon, and were compelled to select
their stream at random. Had they gone farther east, and chosen the
Utakwa, they would have found a current navigable for an ocean-going
steamer for seventeen miles from its mouth, and for launches for many
miles more--a river, moreover, running directly from the highest
snows of Mount Carstensz. As it was, they hit upon a river called
the Mimika, a small jungle-fed stream rising in the low foothills
sixty miles to the west of Carstensz, and twenty miles or so short of
the main range. The Mimika, too, was full of endless windings and
liable to sudden and violent floodings. Hence it was of little use
to the expedition in the way of transport. This was the more
regrettable since transport was the essence of the problem. From the
foothills of the mountains to the sea lies a belt of forest like a
barbed-wire entanglement. This forest is so dense that the cutting
of a road can only progress at the rate of 100 yards a day. It is
swampy, and often, in flood-time, under water, and filled with every
form of noxious insect life. Unless this nightmare land can be
circumvented by the use of a broad river channel, it must take even a
strong party many months before they reach the base of the hills.
This was what happened to Captain Rawling. On January 26, 1910,
after a base camp had been established at Wakatimi, not far from the
Mimika mouth, he set off to ascend the river. Here is his
description of the country:--
"It is quite impossible for any one who has not visited these parts
of New Guinea to realize the density of the forest growth. The
vegetation, through which only the scantiest glimpses of the sky can
be obtained, appears to form, as it were, two great horizontal
strata. The first comprises the giant trees, whose topmost boughs
are 150 feet or more above the ground; the other, the bushes, shrubs,
and trees of lesser growth, which never attain a greater height than
30 to 40 feet. Such is the richness of the soil that not one square
foot remains untenanted, and the never-ending struggle to reach
upwards towards the longed-for light goes on silently and
relentlessly. Creepers and parasites in endless variety cling to
every stem, slowly but surely throttling their hosts. From tree to
tree their tentacles stretch out, seizing on to the first projecting
branch and limb, and forming such a close and tangled mass that the
dead and dying giants of the forest are prevented from falling to the
ground....
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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