The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of ExplorationBuchan, John
History
The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of Exploration
Buchan, John
Discoveries in geography; Explorers
Mount Carstensz still awaits its conqueror. Since the Rawling
expedition much has been done in the exploration of the central
mountains. In 1913 Mount Wilhelmina (15,580 feet), of which Dr.
Lorentz had trodden the lower snows, was finally ascended by Captain
Herderschee. In 1921 Captain Kremer reached the same summit from the
north, and found a means of crossing the range at a height of 13,480
feet. A German expedition under Dr. Moszkowski, which was projected
in 1913 to attempt Carstensz from the north, was stopped by the war.
Meantime, in September, 1912, Mr. Wollaston, Captain Rawling's
companion, had returned to New Guinea and ascended the Utakwa River.
Its head waters led him direct to Carstensz, and by establishing a
series of depots for food in the foothills, he was able to reach the
main massif of the mountain. Above 8,000 feet he left the jungles
behind; but the mountain proved very difficult, and the rain, as
usual, fell without intermission. At 14,200 feet he reached the
snow-line, and on February 1, 1913, from a camp above 12,000 feet, he
climbed to 14,866 feet, a thousand feet or so below the summit.
There he was stopped by an ice fall, and lack of provisions and the
weakness of his party prevented him from finding a way to turn it.
The top of the mountain is an ice cap which breaks down very sheer on
the south side, and Mr. Wollaston is of opinion that the easiest
ascent would be from the north. This closes for the present the
history of the exploration of Carstensz.
For the second story we move east into British territory. There the
general configuration is the same--swamps near the shore, then a
tangled forest, then a range of inland mountains, though these are
much less conspicuous than the ranges in Dutch territory, and
scarcely rise above 6,000 feet. In 1911 the Hon. Miles Staniforth
Smith, who had been Mayor of Kalgoorlie, and a senator representing
West Australia in the Commonwealth Parliament, and was at the time
Administrator of Papua, set out across the centre of the unexplored
part of his province to investigate the sources of the rivers
emptying into the Papuan Gulf. As the travelling was of the
roughest, and the aim was exploration rather than scientific
research, the party was kept very small--three white men, Mr.
Staniforth Smith, Mr. Bell, the Chief Inspector of Native Affairs,
and Mr. Pratt, a Staff Surveyor, together with eleven native police
and seventeen carriers. They started from the head of the navigable
waters of the Kikor or Aird River, meaning to push north to the top
of Mount Murray, and then traverse to the west along the ridge.
Mount Murray, which is some 6,000 feet high, was safely reached, and
the explorers found themselves moving along a high limestone plateau,
much fissured by streams and diversified by parallel ranges. They
hoped ultimately to reach the Strickland River, which is a tributary
of the great Fly River, and so complete the rest of their journey by
rafts.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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