The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of ExplorationBuchan, John
History
The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of Exploration
Buchan, John
Discoveries in geography; Explorers
The next few days were occupied in bringing up supplies to Camp 4 on
the North Col. They had only nine porters available, and this
decided them that it would not be feasible to make two camps on the
face of the mountain. They resolved to attempt to make one camp at
about 26,000 feet, and from that to make their final effort.
On the 19th the four climbers, Mr. Mallory, Mr. Norton, Major
Morshead, and Mr. Somervell, left Camp 3 at a quarter to nine in the
morning, and an hour after mid-day were busy putting up tents and
arranging stores at Camp 4 on the North Col. The sun set at 4.30,
and they turned in for the night in the best of spirits. On the
morrow they proposed to carry up two of the small tents, two double
sleeping-sacks, food for a day and a half, cooking-pots, and two
thermos flasks. They would make four loads of the stuff, which would
give two porters to each load, with a man to spare.
On 20th May, Mr. Mallory got up at 5 a.m., and found that there was
no sign of life in the tents in which the nine porters were
quartered. The coolies had shut themselves in so hermetically that
they were all unwell, and four of them were suffering badly from
mountain-sickness. Only five were able to embark on the day's work.
Breakfast was a slow business, because everything was frozen hard,
and the dish of spaghetti which they had promised themselves could
only be prepared after an elaborate process of thawing.
A start was made at 7 a.m., and everything went smoothly at first,
for ropes had been fixed between their camp and the col itself, so as
to help them on their return. From the col a broad snow ridge went
up at an easy angle, and all the climbers felt that bodily fitness
which is the assurance of success.
Then their troubles began. The first was the cold. The sun had no
more warmth in it than a candle, and a bitter wind began to blow from
the west. They came to an end of the ridge of stones on which they
had been progressing easily, and realized that they must get some
shelter from the wind by moving to the east side of the shoulder.
Step-cutting was now necessary, and at that height the exertion
required was extraordinarily severe. Moreover, the cold was telling
upon them, and the porters especially suffered badly. After some 300
feet of steps they rested about noon under the shelter of some rocks
at 25,000 feet.
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