The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of ExplorationBuchan, John
History
The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of Exploration
Buchan, John
Discoveries in geography; Explorers
In order to move more quickly, Mr. Finch and Captain Bruce dispensed
with the rope. The rocks were quite easy, and at 26,500 feet they
had passed two admirable sites for a camp. But the wind was steadily
increasing in force, and they were compelled to leave the ridge and
traverse out across the great north face. This was bad luck, for the
ridge was easy climbing and the face was not. The stratification of
the rocks was most awkward, and it was hard to find any good
footholds. The climbers were unroped, and it was a severe test of
Captain Bruce, who had had no mountaineering experience to give him
confidence. Sometimes they were on treacherous slopes, sometimes on
more treacherous snow, and they often had to cross heaps of scree
that moved with every step. They stopped occasionally to replace an
empty cylinder of oxygen with a new one, each of which meant five
pounds off their load. Presently the aneroid gave their height as
27,000 feet. They now ceased traversing, and began to climb straight
upward to a point on the North-East ridge, half way between the
shoulder and the summit. Soon they were at 27,300 feet, and the top
of Everest was the only mountain they could see without looking down.
The peaks which had seemed so formidable from the glacier had now
sunk into insignificant humps. They were 1,700 feet below the
summit, well within half a mile of it, and they could distinguish
stones and a patch of scree just under its highest point.
But it was very clear that they could go no farther. Weak with
hunger and the anxiety and labours of the past forty-eight hours, it
was plain to Mr. Finch that if they went on even for another 500 feet
they would not both get back alive. Like wise and brave men they
decided to retreat. It was now about midday, and for greater safety
they roped together. At first they followed their old tracks, and
then moved towards the North ridge at a point higher than where they
had left it. They reached the ridge at two o'clock, and there
reduced their burden by dumping four oxygen cylinders at a place to
which future climbers could be directed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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