The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of ExplorationBuchan, John
History
The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of Exploration
Buchan, John
Discoveries in geography; Explorers
From the cache began a long system of relays, for it was impossible
to carry all the equipment in one journey. There was now no trail,
and a road had to be "broken" before each stage. The route lay up
the Chulitna, and the travellers hoped to find some large stream
coming down on their left which would indicate a gap in the Alaskan
range. Any such gap would, of course, be filled with glaciers, the
water from which must form a river. On the whole, winter travelling
compared favourably with summer. The men used snow-shoes to break
the trail, and after equipment had been transported for five miles,
returned on the empty sleds for new loads. Winter had not killed all
signs of wild life, though hunting was difficult, and the snow was
dotted with the tracks of innumerable wild things. Even a finch was
heard singing. Camping was perfectly comfortable, and in a tent with
the stove lit and beds of green spruce prepared, the nights were warm
and peaceful.
At last, as the trees began to thin, they came to a point where the
valley split and a great cañon turned north towards the range.
Travel now became rougher, for the broad level flats gave way to
snow-covered rapids and big drifts. As they advanced up the gorge a
glacier was seen winding down from the centre of the mountains. One
night Mr. Belmore Browne had an accident which might have proved
serious. He went out to shoot an owl for food, and as the ejector of
his little rifle had been removed the cartridge came back on his eye
and just missed his right eyeball. It gave him an eerie feeling to
see the friendly dogs lapping up the bloodstained snow. Shortly
after he made a reconnaissance of twenty-five miles ahead, and found
the glacier they had seen from afar off running like a great white
road into the hills. The route seemed possible, but there were ugly
ice precipices at the head which suggested that the crossing of the
pass might not be easy.
A second reconnaissance took him to the head of the glacier. At
first no crossing could be discerned, but suddenly at the head of the
right-hand basin the mountains broke away and he saw a smooth
snow-field leading to the crest. He climbed to the top of it, and at
first saw nothing but a sheer precipice. At length, however, he
discovered on the right a gentle snow slope leading down into a great
snow cup, and realized that the pass could be crossed.
On 3rd April the main camp was pushed up to a height of 6,000 feet.
Then came a delay from a blizzard, which confined the explorers for
twenty-four hours to their tents. It was bitterly cold, and
everything, including the alarm clock, froze stiff. They managed,
however, to get a little fire with an empty pemmican case, and, with
the stove, had a sort of party in the tent--men, dogs, and
everything. The party was, however, unceremoniously broken up by one
of the dogs backing into the stove, and filling the tent with a cloud
of smoke from singed hair.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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