The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of ExplorationBuchan, John
History
The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of Exploration
Buchan, John
Discoveries in geography; Explorers
The behaviour of the pilgrims, who now saw with their own eyes the
tomb of the Prophet, which from their childhood they had been taught
to regard with awe, was a proof of the living reality of the Islamic
faith. "Many burst into tears and frantically kissed the railings: I
have seen Indians and Afghans fall down apparently unconscious. They
seem to be much more affected here than before the Kaaba itself. At
Mecca the feeling is of awe and reverence; here the personal element
comes in. The onlooker might fancy that they were visiting the tomb
of some dear friend, one whom they had actually known and been
intimate with in his lifetime. With frantic interest they listen to
their guides as they describe the surroundings. Here is the place
where the Prophet prayed, the pulpit he preached from, the pillar
against which he leant; there, looking to the mosque, is the window
of Abu Bakar's house, where for long he stayed as a guest; and beyond
is the little garden planted by his daughter Fatima." Moreover,
there is no suggestion of infidel authority, the Moslem standards
float over the town, Moslem cannon protect its gates, and no
unbeliever may enter. But there are startling touches of modernity.
In the shops you may buy European tinned goods and note
advertisements of Cadbury's chocolates and Huntley and Palmer's
biscuits!
The party had brought introductions from Damascus and Abdul Wahid had
made various friends, so they saw a good deal of society. The time
was just after the rising of the Young Turks and the grant of the
Constitution. Mr. Wavell, who was a staunch Tory, found to his
disgust that every one talked parliamentarianism and Liberal
principles. England and the English were everywhere in high favour
because of our attitude in the recent quarrel with Austria over the
annexation of Bosnia. "I am afraid I managed to give the impression
that Zanzibar is a sadly backward state, or that I myself am
peculiarly stupid. Not to know a word of any European language is to
be held very ignorant, even in Medina. Most people of the class with
whom I associated had at any rate a smattering of French, and
sometimes of English too. I was careful never to know anything."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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