Authors, American -- 20th century -- Correspondence; Crane, Hart, 1899-1932. Correspondence
Dear ---- and ----: It is still one day less than a week since we
sailed, our second on the Island. Frank got Ward Line accommodations,
which cut a day off the sea; and we were rather sorry. Still, passing
Pam Bitch, My ammy and other Coney islands at midnight wasn’t especially
thrilling: that part of the trip was too close shore. But Havana was
more and better than I had imagined. Architecture rather like
Chirico--some Spanish plateresque and physically metaphysically
suggestive. But mostly on the surface, there isn’t other evidence.
F.’s Spanish brought us off all beaten paths. We didn’t visit an
American haunt except the steamship office. The rest was mostly bars,
cafes and theatres--filled with blacks, reds, browns, greys and every
permutation and combinations of southern bloods that you can imagine.
Coronas-Coronas, of course, for 15¢, marvelous sherry, cognac, vermouth
and “Tropical” (the beer that I was talking about). Am. boats seem to be
easy, by the way: we had St. Julian and Sauterne all the way down at
table. Then we went to the Alhambra, a kind of Cuban National Winter
Garden Burlesque. Latin “broadness” was somewhat veiled from me as far
as the dialogue went, but actions went farther than apparently even the
East Side can stand.
Gratings and balconies and narrow streets with plenty of whores nodding.
The day of our departure a great fleet of American destroyers landed.
Streets immediately became torrents of uniforms--one sailor had exactly
the Chinese mustache effect that I aspire to. But no J---- F----: his
boat must have passed to Brooklyn--passed in the night. Taxis anywhere
in town for only 20¢, but that’s about the only cheap feature. Great
black-bushed buxom Jamaican senoritas roared laughter at us, old women
hobbled up offering lottery tickets (I finally got one on a hunch). The
whole town is hypersensual and mad--i.e. has no apparent direction,
destiny, or purpose: Cummings’ paradise. I shall have to go up for a
real spree sometime when cash is plentiful, meanwhile this isle is
enough Eden.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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