The Letters of "Norah" on Her Tour Through IrelandNorah
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The Letters of "Norah" on Her Tour Through Ireland
Norah
Ireland -- Description and travel
Left Castlebar with regret and went down to Westport. I find at every
step since I landed the information that in going round Ireland I should
have begun at Dublin. In Dublin I could have procured a guide book. I
have sought for one in every considerable town from Belfast round to the
edge of Galway without obtaining it. If I had started from Dublin I
should have taken a tourist's ticket there. Well, I am not sorry for
that, for it is rather hard on me when I get into the beaten track where
I encounter tourists--some of them are trying specimens of humanity.
However, I am made to feel as if I was patting the wrong foot, instead
of the best foot foremost.
I got into Westport in the fair sunlight in the early part of June.
Between Castlebar and Westport the land is part stony, part bog, part
better land under grass. Mountains with hard names, that one makes haste
to forget, are to be seen all round from whatever side of the car you
look. They are all over--a good deal over--one thousand feet high. A few
lakes are spread out here and there also. I am as ignorant of their
names as of those of the lakes I saw crossing Maine. Westport, like
Castlebar, has a mall. Castlebar mall is a square of grass with some
trees drawn up on one side. It is fenced in with chains looped up on
posts--a fence that nobody minds except to step over and they track the
grass with paths running in every direction. Westport's mall is a long
space with trees standing sentry by a river, walled in as if it were a
canal.
I had a wish to meet with a Mr. Smithwick, a land agent, from whom I
might receive a good deal of information. I had information from himself
that he should be at Newport upon the day after I arrived at Westport. I
fought successfully against myself, and got up at an uncomfortably early
hour and went to Newport by mail car. Newport, Mayo, is six Irish--seven
and a half English--miles from Westport and is at the head of Clew Bay.
The road lies through a nice rolling country, entirely desolate and
empty.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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