The Letters of "Norah" on Her Tour Through IrelandNorah
History
The Letters of "Norah" on Her Tour Through Ireland
Norah
Ireland -- Description and travel
The Shannon is a mighty river running here between low green banks. The
tide comes up to Limerick and rises sometimes to the top of the sea
wall. A fine flourishing busy town is Limerick with its shipping. I have
discovered the post-office, found out the magnificent Redemptorist
Church. Noticing this church and the swarm of other grand churches with
the same emblems and the five convents as well as other buildings for
different fraternities, noticing also the queer by-places where
dissenting places of worship are hidden away, one concludes that they
are in a Catholic city, and so they are. On Sunday found out a little
Presbyterian Church hid away behind some houses and joined its handful
of worshippers.
In the afternoon walked along the streets for some way and found myself
all at once in what is called the English part of the town, but which
looked more foreign than any place I have yet seen on my own green isle.
The houses were tall, and had been grand in King Donagh O'Brien's time,
I suppose. The streets were very narrow. The last week's wash, that
looked as if the Shannon was further away than it is, fluttered from the
broken windows of the fifth story. All the shops were open; there did
not seem to be any buyers, but if there were, they might get supplied.
The very old huckster women sat by their baskets of very small and very
wizened apples, and infinitesimal pears that had forgotten to grow. Two
women, one in a third-story window and one on the street, were
exchanging strong compliments. In fact, as our cousins would say, "there
was no Sunday in that English quarter worth a cent." I made my escape
with a sick longing for some one to carry a gospel of good tidings of
great joy in there.
Next morning I found out the English Cathedral, which is at the very
border, so to speak, of that forgotten place. It stands in pretty
grounds. The elderly gentleman who has the care of it, and who shows it
off like a pet child, happened to be there, and took charge of me. He
was determined I should conscientiously see and hear all about that
church. This church was built in 1194 by Donagh O'Brien, King of
Munster. It was not new even then, for King Donagh made his new church
out of an old palace of his.
I followed that old man while he pointed out the relics of the old and
the glories of the new, the magnificent painted windows, the velvet of
the costliest that covered the altar, the carvings of price, the
cushions and the carpets, and, a few steps away, the fluttering rags,
the horrible poverty, the hopeless lives of the English quarter. Truly
the fat and the wool are in one place, and the flock on the dark
mountains in another. Outside are various stone cupboards, called
vaults, where highbred dust moulders in state free from any beggarly
admixture.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account