The Letters of Robert Louis Stevenson — Volume 2Stevenson, Robert Louis
General
The Letters of Robert Louis Stevenson — Volume 2
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Authors, Scottish -- 19th century -- Correspondence; Stevenson, Robert Louis, 1850-1894 -- Correspondence
DEAR FANNY,—I had a lovely sail up. Captain Cameron and Mr. Gilfillan,
both born in the States, yet the first still with a strong Highland, and
the second still with a strong Lowland accent, were good company; the
night was warm, the victuals plain but good. Mr. Gilfillan gave me his
berth, and I slept well, though I heard the sisters sick in the next
stateroom, poor souls. Heavy rolling woke me in the morning; I turned in
all standing, so went right on the upper deck. The day was on the peep
out of a low morning bank, and we were wallowing along under stupendous
cliffs. As the lights brightened, we could see certain abutments and
buttresses on their front where wood clustered and grass grew brightly.
But the whole brow seemed quite impassable, and my heart sank at the
sight. Two thousand feet of rock making 19° (the Captain guesses) seemed
quite beyond my powers. However, I had come so far; and, to tell you the
truth, I was so cowed with fear and disgust that I dared not go back on
the adventure in the interests of my own self-respect. Presently we came
up with the leper promontory: lowland, quite bare and bleak and harsh, a
little town of wooden houses, two churches, a landing-stair, all
unsightly, sour, northerly, lying athwart the sunrise, with the great
wall of the pali cutting the world out on the south. Our lepers were
sent on the first boat, about a dozen, one poor child very horrid, one
white man, leaving a large grown family behind him in Honolulu, and then
into the second stepped the sisters and myself. I do not know how it
would have been with me had the sisters not been there. My horror of the
horrible is about my weakest point; but the moral loveliness at my elbow
blotted all else out; and when I found that one of them was crying, poor
soul, quietly under her veil, I cried a little myself; then I felt as
right as a trivet, only a little crushed to be there so uselessly. I
thought it was a sin and a shame she should feel unhappy; I turned round
to her, and said something like this: ‘Ladies, God Himself is here to
give you welcome. I’m sure it is good for me to be beside you; I hope it
will be blessed to me; I thank you for myself and the good you do me.’
It seemed to cheer her up; but indeed I had scarce said it when we were
at the landing-stairs, and there was a great crowd, hundreds of (God save
us!) pantomime masks in poor human flesh, waiting to receive the sisters
and the new patients.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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