To deprive a Lhota of his “madhu” (soko) would be like depriving a
British workman of both his beer and tea. The Lhota only drinks water
if he can get nothing else. He drinks “madhu” both at meals and between
meals. It is made as follows. Rice is boiled in the ordinary way and
spread on a mat to cool. A cake of yeast (vamhe) is then broken up and
well mixed with it, and the rice put to ferment in a basket lined with
leaves. Next day the liquor begins to run off and is collected in a
bamboo “chunga.” This is zutsü (Assamese “rohi”), the most potent form
of “madhu.” When new it is the colour of rather greenish water. If kept
it will remain good for five or six months, gradually increasing in
strength and turning a pale sherry colour. It is this form of “madhu”
which is always offered to guests of importance. In some villages of
the Northern Lhotas the rice is not put into a basket to ferment, but
into a vat, a hollow section of bamboo being placed upright in it to
collect the zutsü, which is allowed to drain off for three days. The
fermented rice from which the zutsü has been drained off is put into a
“madhu-sieve” (cham) and hot or sometimes cold water is poured on to
it. It is well kneaded, and the resulting brew is chemcho (Assamese
“saka madhu”), the usual Lhota drink, and is of about the potency of
light beer. Sometimes, especially among the Southern Lhotas, millet,
giant millet or Job’s tears, or a mixture of maize and rice, is used
instead of rice for making “madhu.” The yeast is made as follows. Rice
is ground into flour and wetted and kneaded into dough. To this a
little old yeast is added, and either the water from crushed phyushako
bark, or from the crushed leaves of yimerhe or shingwo. The dough with
this added is again well kneaded and divided into cakes about the size
of penny buns. These dry of themselves and remain good for six or seven
months.
The mild form of rice beer called in Assamese “pita madhu,” which is so
popular among the Angamis, is hardly made by the Lhotas except at
harvest. A little unhusked rice is kept damp until it sprouts, and is
then dried. Husked rice is ground into flour and put into a vat with
hot water. Next day when it has become cold the dried sprouted rice is
ground up and mixed with a little yeast and added to the water. This
ferments and is ready for drinking next day. It is drunk diluted with
water and is called etha soko.
Medicine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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