The Life and Adventures of Bruce, the African TravellerHead, Francis Bond, Sir
History
The Life and Adventures of Bruce, the African Traveller
Head, Francis Bond, Sir
Bruce, James, 1730-1794; Ethiopia -- Description and travel
Hamhammou is a desert mountain of black stones, apparently almost
calcined by the heat of the sun: it forms the boundary of a district
that belongs to the Hazorta. This tribe, who, from inhabiting a higher
country, have a much lighter complexion than their neighbours the
Shihos, are exceedingly active; they inhabit caves, or else cabanes,
like cages, which, covered with hides, are just large enough to hold two
persons. They live in constant defiance of the Naybe of Masuah, against
whom their attacks have generally proved successful. As their nights are
here cold even in summer, the Hazorta, as well as their children, are
clothed.
Bruce now proceeded through a plain which, he says, "was set so thick
with acacia-trees that our hands and faces were all torn and bloody with
the strokes of their thorny branches." They suddenly came to the mouth
of a narrow valley, through which a stream of beautiful water ran very
swiftly over a bed of pebbles. It was the first clear water which Bruce
had seen since he left Syria; and it naturally gave him that
indescribable pleasure which sweet water always affords to a tired,
thirsty traveller. The shade of the tamarind-tree and the coolness of
the air invited them to rest on this delightful spot. "The caper-tree,"
says Bruce, "here grows as high as the tallest English elm; its flower
is white, and its fruit, though not ripe, was fully as large as an
apricot. I went at some distance to a small pool of water to bathe, and
took my firelock with me; but none of the savages stirred from their
huts, nor seemed to regard me more than if I had lived among them all
their lives, though surely I was the most extraordinary sight they had
ever seen; whence I conclude that they are a people of small talents or
genius, having no curiosity."
Proceeding along the side of the river, among large timber-trees, Bruce
pitched his tent by the side of another stream, as clear, as shallow,
and as beautiful as the first; yet in every direction he was surrounded
by bleak, black, desolate mountains, covered with loose stones, and,
besides these, there was nothing to be seen but the heavens. Their road
for some time wound between mountains, the banks of the torrent being
still covered with rack and sycamore trees, which, being under a burning
sun, and well watered, were naturally of an enormous size. In the
evening they reached Tubbo; and as Salt says "Bruce has well described
this place," we shall give the picture in his own words:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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