The Life and Adventures of Bruce, the African TravellerHead, Francis Bond, Sir
History
The Life and Adventures of Bruce, the African Traveller
Head, Francis Bond, Sir
Bruce, James, 1730-1794; Ethiopia -- Description and travel
The next day they traversed an extensive plain, in which is situated
Teawa, the capital, or principal village of Atbara. The thermometer
slung under the camel, in the shade of the girba, was now from 111° to
119½°. At six in the evening they arrived at the village of Carigana,
"whose inhabitants," says Bruce, "had all perished with hunger the year
before; their wretched bones being unburied, and scattered upon the
surface of the ground where the village formerly stood. We encamped
among the bones of the dead; no space could be found free from them; and
on the 23d, at six in the morning, full of horror at this miserable
spectacle, we set out for Teawa." Late in the evening, when they had
arrived within a quarter of a mile from this capital, they were met by a
man on horseback, clothed in a large loose gown of red camlet, with a
white muslin turban on his head, and attended by about twenty naked
servants on foot, armed with lances, and preceded by a pipe and two
small drums. The leader of this savage band was about seventy, with a
very long beard, and a graceful appearance. It was with the utmost
difficulty that he could be prevailed upon to mount his horse, as he
declared it was his intention to walk by the side of Bruce's mule till
he entered the town of Teawa; mounting, however, at last, he made a
great display of his horsemanship, as a mark of humiliation or
politeness. On entering the town they passed a very commodious house,
which had been ordered by the sheikh for the residence of Bruce; and,
after crossing the square, they came to the sheikh's house, or rather
his collection of houses, which were one story high, and built of canes.
They then entered a large hall, built of unburned bricks, and covered
with straw mats. In the middle there was a chair to which obeisance was
made, it being considered as the seat of the Grand Seignior. The sheikh
was sitting on the ground, affecting great humility, and pretending to
be devoutly occupied in reading the Koran. When Bruce entered he seemed
to be surprised, and made an attempt as if to rise, but the traveller
prevented it by holding him down by his hand, which he kissed.
"I shall not fatigue the reader," says Bruce, "with the uninteresting
conversation that passed at this first interview. He affected to admire
my size and apparent strength, and to blame me for exposing myself to
travel in such a country. In return, I complained of the extreme fatigue
of the journey and heat, the beasts of prey, the thick woods without
shade, the want of water, and, above all, the poisonous blasts of the
simoom that had almost overcome me, the effects of which I was at that
instant feeling.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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