The Life and Adventures of Bruce, the African TravellerHead, Francis Bond, Sir
History
The Life and Adventures of Bruce, the African Traveller
Head, Francis Bond, Sir
Bruce, James, 1730-1794; Ethiopia -- Description and travel
"While the camels were loading," says Bruce, "I bathed, with infinite
pleasure, for a long half hour in the Nile, and thus took leave of my
old acquaintance, very doubtful if we should ever meet again." They now
left the river, and slowly entering what may not unjustly be termed the
gate of the great desert of Nubia (that valley of the shadow of death),
they came to a bare spot of cemented gravel, of a very disagreeable
whitish colour, mixed with small pieces of white marble, and pebbles
like alabaster. At half past eight they stopped on a sandy plain without
trees: they now found that the camels were too heavily laden, but they
comforted themselves with the reflection that this would be remedied by
the daily consumption of the provisions. The next day, after travelling
six hours with great diligence, their misfortunes began, from a trifling
circumstance which had not been attended to. Their shoes, which had long
required repair, had now become absolutely useless; their feet were much
inflamed by the burning sand, and the skin rubbed off in different
places. Close before them was Hambily, a small rock, which being,
nevertheless, too large to be covered by the moving sands, is of the
utmost importance to the caravans as a landmark.
On the 14th, early in the morning, they continued their journey, and,
after travelling about twenty-one miles, alighted among some
acacia-trees, at a place called Waadi el Halbout. "We were here," says
Bruce, "at once surprised and terrified by a sight, surely one of the
most magnificent in the world. In that vast expanse of desert, from W.
to N.W. of us, we saw a number of prodigious pillars of sand at
different distances, at times moving with great celerity, at others
stalking on with a majestic slowness; at intervals we thought they were
coming in a very few minutes to overwhelm us; and small quantities of
sand did actually, more than once, reach us. Again they would retreat so
as to be almost out of sight, their tops reaching to the very clouds.
There the tops often separated from their bodies; and these, once
disjoined, dispersed in the air, and did not appear more. Sometimes they
were broken near the middle, as if struck with a large cannon-shot.
About noon they began to advance with considerable swiftness upon us,
the wind being very strong at north. Eleven of them ranged alongside of
us about the distance of three miles. The greatest diameter of the
largest appeared to me at that distance as if it would measure ten feet.
They retired from us with a wind at S.E., leaving an impression upon my
mind to which I can give no name, though surely one ingredient in it was
fear, with a considerable deal of wonder and astonishment. It was in
vain to think of flying; the swiftest horse or fastest sailing ship
could be of no use to carry us out of this danger, and the full
persuasion of this riveted me as if to the spot where I stood, and let
the camels gain on me so much in my state of lameness, that it was with
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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