The Life and Adventures of Bruce, the African TravellerHead, Francis Bond, Sir
History
The Life and Adventures of Bruce, the African Traveller
Head, Francis Bond, Sir
Bruce, James, 1730-1794; Ethiopia -- Description and travel
"This phenomenon of the simoom, unexpected by us, though foreseen by
Idris, caused us all to relapse into our former despondency. It still
continued to blow, so as to exhaust us entirely, though the blast was so
weak as scarcely would have raised a leaf from the ground. At twenty
minutes before five the simoom ceased, and a comfortable and cooling
breeze came by starts from the north, blowing five or six minutes at a
time, and then falling calm. We were now come to the Acaba, the ascent
before we arrived at Chiggre, where we intended to have stopped that
night; but we all moved on with tacit consent, nor did one person
pretend to say how far he guessed we were to go." At thirteen minutes
past eight they alighted in a sandy, barren plain, covered with loose
stones. They were now only a quarter of a mile due north from the well,
which is in the narrow gorge forming the southern outlet of this small
plain. Though they had travelled thirteen hours and a quarter this day,
it was but a slow pace, the wretched camels being famished as well as
tired, and lamed by the sharp stones with which the ground in all places
was covered. The country, for three days past, had been destitute of
herbage of any kind, entirely desert, and abandoned to moving sands;
which might be said to "sweep it with the besom of destruction."
Chiggre is a small narrow valley, about half way across the great desert
of Nubia, and surrounded with barren rocks. The wells are ten in number,
and the narrow gorge by which they are approached is not ten yards
broad. The springs, however, are very abundant. Wherever a pit is dug
five or six feet deep, it is immediately filled with water. The
principal pool is about forty yards square and five feet deep; but the
best-tasted water was in the cleft of a rock, about thirty yards higher,
on the west side of this narrow outlet.
The eagerness with which Bruce and his party rushed to these wells can
scarcely be imagined; for no one would believe the effect which the
sight of water under such circumstances produces on the human frame,
unless he had himself experienced the burning thirst of the desert.
The springs were exceedingly foul, having been visited by animals of
many descriptions. It was impossible to drink without putting a piece of
a cotton girdle over the mouth, to keep out, by filtration, the filth of
the putrid substances with which they were filled. Bruce saw a number of
partridges on the face of the bare rock, but he did not dare shoot at
them, for fear of being heard by wandering Arabs that might be in the
neighbourhood; for Chiggre is a haunt of the Bishareen of the tribe of
Abou Bertran, who, though they do not make it a station, because there
is no pasture, nor can anything grow there, yet find it one of their
most valuable places of refreshment, on account of the great quantity of
water.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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