The Life and Letters of Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq, Vol. 1 (of 2)Busbecq, Ogier Ghislain de
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The Life and Letters of Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Busbecq, Ogier Ghislain de
Busbecq, Ogier Ghislain de, 1522-1592
The Turks thought it quite sufficient progress for one day to get
horses, carriages, luggage, and suite across the straits; their
special reason for not going further on that day was, that, if they
had forgotten anything necessary for the journey, (a very ordinary
circumstance), they would not have far to send for it. Leaving Scutari
on the next day, we passed through fields full of lavender, and other
fragrant plants. Here we saw a great many big tortoises crawling about.
They were not afraid of us, and we should have caught and eaten them
with the greatest pleasure, had we not shrunk from hurting the feelings
of the Turks who accompanied us; for had they touched them, or so much
as seen them brought to our table, they would have held themselves to
be defiled, and would have required endless washings to remove their
imaginary pollution. You will remember my telling you of the extent
to which both Greeks and Turks carry their superstition in avoiding
contact with animals of this kind. Since no one, therefore, would
snare as vermin a creature so harmless, and no one will eat it, the
consequence is that tortoises swarm in these parts. I kept one which
had two heads for several days, and it would have lived longer had I
not neglected it.
That day we came to a village called Cartali. By the way, I shall
from this point be glad to give you the names of our halting-places.
The journey to Constantinople has been taken by many, but the road
to Amasia has, to the best of my knowledge, been traversed by no
European before us. From Cartali we came to Gebise, a town of Bithynia,
which they think was formerly Libyssa, famous as the burial-place of
Hannibal. From it there is a most lovely view over the sea and bay of
Ismid; I observed also some cypresses of extraordinary height and girth.
Our fourth stage from Constantinople brought us to Nicomedia (Ismid).
It is an ancient city of great renown; but we saw nothing in it worth
looking at except its ruins and rubbish, which contained, in the
remnants of column and architrave, all that is left of its ancient
grandeur. The citadel, which stands on a hill, is in a better state
of preservation. Shortly before our arrival, a long wall of white
marble had been discovered under the earth by some people who had been
digging, which, I am inclined to think, formed part of the ancient
palace of the kings of Bithynia.
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