The Life and Letters of Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq, Vol. 1 (of 2)Busbecq, Ogier Ghislain de
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The Life and Letters of Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Busbecq, Ogier Ghislain de
Busbecq, Ogier Ghislain de, 1522-1592
For the nonce, take your stand by my side, and look at the sea of
turbaned heads, each wrapped in twisted folds of the whitest silk; look
at those marvellously handsome dresses of every kind and every colour;
time would fail me to tell how all around is glittering with gold, with
silver, with purple, with silk, and with velvet; words cannot convey
an adequate idea of that strange and wondrous sight: it was the most
beautiful spectacle I ever saw.
With all this luxury great simplicity and economy are combined; every
man’s dress, whatever his position may be, is of the same pattern;
no fringes or useless points are sewn on, as is the case with us,
appendages which cost a great deal of money, and are worn out in three
days. In Turkey the tailor’s bill for a silk or velvet dress, even
though it be richly embroidered, as most of them are, is only a ducat.
They were quite as much surprised at our manner of dressing as we were
at theirs. They use long robes reaching down to the ankles, which have
a stately effect and add to the wearer’s height, while our dress is so
short and scanty that it leaves exposed to view more than is comely of
the human shape; besides, somehow or other, our fashion of dress seems
to take from the wearer’s height, and make him look shorter than he
really is.[139]
I was greatly struck with the silence and order that prevailed
in this great crowd. There were no cries, no hum of voices, the
usual accompaniments of a motley gathering, neither was there any
jostling; without the slightest disturbance each man took his proper
place according to his rank. The Agas, as they call their chiefs,
were seated, to wit, generals, colonels (bimbaschi), and captains
(soubaschi). Men of a lower position stood. The most interesting sight
in this assembly was a body of several thousand Janissaries, who were
drawn up in a long line apart from the rest; their array was so steady
and motionless that, being at a little distance, it was some time
before I could make up my mind as to whether they were human beings or
statues; at last I received a hint to salute them, and saw all their
heads bending at the same moment to return my bow. On leaving the
assembly we had a fresh treat in the sight of the household cavalry
returning to their quarters; the men were mounted on splendid horses,
excellently groomed, and gorgeously accoutred. And so we left the royal
presence, taking with us but little hope of a successful issue to our
embassy.
By May 10 the Persian Ambassador had arrived, bringing with him a
number of handsome presents, carpets from famous looms, Babylonian
tents, the inner sides of which were covered with coloured tapestries,
trappings and housings of exquisite workmanship, jewelled scimitars
from Damascus, and shields most tastefully designed; but the chief
present of all was a copy of the Koran, a gift highly prized among the
Turks; it is a book containing the laws and rites enacted by Mahomet,
which they suppose to be inspired.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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