The Life and Letters of Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq, Volumes 1 and 2Busbecq, Ogier Ghislain de
History
The Life and Letters of Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq, Volumes 1 and 2
Busbecq, Ogier Ghislain de
Busbecq, Ogier Ghislain de, 1522-1592
After leaving Nicomedia, we crossed the range of Mount Olympus, and
arrived at the village of Kasockli; thence to Nicæa (Isnik), which
we did not reach till late in the evening. I heard not far from the
city loud shouting, and what seemed to be cries of mockery and insult
issuing from human lips. I asked what it was, suggesting that it might
proceed from some boatmen on the Lake of Isnik, which was not far
off, and that they were chaffing us for being so late on the road. They
told me that it was the howlings of certain wild beasts, which the
Turks call jackals. They are a species of wolf, not so large as the
common wolf, but larger than foxes, and quite a match for the former in
greed and gluttony. They hunt in packs, doing no harm to human beings
or cattle, and obtaining their food by thievery and cunning rather
than by force. Hence the Turks call sharpers and swindlers, especially
if they come from Asia, jackals. They enter the tents, and even the
houses, of the Turks at night, and devour any eatables they find;
indeed, if they can get nothing else, they gnaw any leathern article
they may chance upon, such as boots, leggings, belts, scabbards,
&c. They are very clever in this manner of stealing, except in one
particular, for, absurdly enough, they sometimes give evidence against
themselves. When in the very act of stealing, if one of the pack
outside happens to set up a howl, they answer the cry, quite forgetting
where they are. The sound awakes the inmates; they catch up their arms
and visit the thieves, whom they have taken red-handed, with condign
punishment.
We remained the following day at Nicæa, and I am inclined to think
that the building I slept in was the very one in which the Nicene
Council was formerly held. Nicæa lies on the shores of the Lake of
Isnik. The walls and gates of the town are in fairly good condition.
There are four gateways in all, and they can be seen from the centre
of the market-place. On each of them is an ancient inscription in
Latin, stating that the town had been restored by Antoninus. I do not
remember which Antoninus it was, but I am quite certain that it was an
Antoninus, who was Emperor. He also built some baths, the remains of
which are still in existence.
Whilst we were at Nicæa, some Turks, who were digging up stone from
the ruins for the construction of public buildings at Constantinople,
came across a statue of an armed soldier, of excellent workmanship,
and almost perfect. But with their hammers they soon reduced it to a
shapeless mass. On our expressing vexation at this act of theirs, the
workmen jeered at us, and asked us if we wanted, in accordance with our
customs, to worship the statue and pray to it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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