"I have seen most of the modern artists of Rome--they are chiefly
young. They have many large, bold undertakings in hand; several
subjects I have seen, twenty-five feet long, either for churches,
or for the Earl of Bristol, an old nobleman here of singular
character, who gives sometimes much encouragement, and often
beyond, I believe, even his power. The manner of painting is very
like what I think I have observed among the French: much attention
and minuteness in detail, while the great principal object of the
story is perhaps failed in. There is not however, I think, so much
extravagance in the representation of action, as I often observed
in the modern French pictures. Among the best historical painters
here are Camuccini, Landi, and Benvenuti. Of the sculptors, Canova,
of course, holds by far the highest rank; many of his works are
certainly very beautifully designed and executed. Next to him, one
of the name of Maximilian is placed as the best. With respect to
the modern architecture, both in its churches and palaces, I must
confess myself somewhat surprised that the excellent models of
ancient art constantly before them have not been more successfully
studied. In general, I think the taste is of rather a heavy,
disagreeable kind, but often a sort of magnificence in the whole
effect which is imposing. I purpose now leaving Rome for a time,
intending on my return to devote some time to more attentive and
diligent study. My time hitherto has been employed, for a great
part, in seeing all the different antiquities and buildings
contained within the extensive walls of the city and in its
suburbs. You may not perhaps have heard of my intention of spending
two or three months in Greece, as it is within so short a time that
I have determined upon it, and consequently since I communicated
it to my family at home. I have been making many inquiries here,
and find it a journey practicable, and as little subject to
difficulties as one can expect; I think too that one may derive
more advantage from a study of the ancient works there, which are
less known, and which have perhaps been the models of the finest
here, than from any in this country. When writing my last letter
home, in which I mentioned my intention, I thought of going by way
of Ancona, where I should embark in a vessel that went to any part
of Greece; since then, I have somewhat changed my plan, purposing
now to go by way of Naples and Otranto, and there embarking for
Corfu. It may still be nearly a fortnight before I set out, as some
preparation is necessary. Greece, it appears, does not afford the
little conveniences found in this country for travellers. I am very
well provided with letters there from the kindness of some English
I have met with here.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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