The life, letters and work of Frederic Leighton. Volume IIBarrington, Russell, Mrs.
General
The life, letters and work of Frederic Leighton. Volume II
Barrington, Russell, Mrs.
Leighton of Stretton, Frederic Leighton, Baron, 1830-1896
"One afternoon, late in the autumn of 1872," wrote Dr. William
Wright, "I was on the roof of my house trying to cool after a
long ride in the sun, when there came a loud knock at my door;
the latch was lifted, and presently a resplendent kavass mounted
to my platform. He explained to me that a noble Englishman was
coming up to see me, and with that Frederic Leighton skipped
gaily up the steps. After a courteous greeting and apology, he
sat down and became silent, absolutely wrapped up in the
pageantry of the sky. When I excused myself for the lapse of the
time, he looked at me, and said quietly, 'No artist ever wasted
time in accurately observing natural phenomena,' and added,
'That sunset will mix with my paint, and will tint your ink as
long as either of us lives. It will never be over, it has dyed
our spirits in colours which can never be washed out.'"
To his father he wrote:--
DAMASCUS, _October 18, 1873_.
DEAR PAPA,--I find that I am not as completely cut off from the
western world here as I have been led to believe I was, and that
boats leave Damascus for Alexandria weekly, and not fortnightly,
as I told you in my hasty line of the other day; although,
therefore, you are no longer uneasy about my health, I will not
defer till the later boat thanking you for your welcome letter
which reached me two or three days ago. I am much shocked and
concerned to hear of the death of my poor friend Benson, for
which I was in no way prepared, the last accounts I had received
before leaving England being of a decidedly hopeful nature. A
kinder heart never beat than his, and I felt really attached to
him; he is a great loss to me. And now to tell you about myself.
Three tedious days on board a Russian boat which tossed and
rolled like a cork over a sea on which a P. and O. would have
been motionless, brought me to Beyrout, a cheery, picturesque,
sunny port at the foot of Lebanon; gay and glad I was to land,
and Andrea's cool, clean inn overlooking the sea was a
delightful haven of rest, and my first meal at a steady table
(or a real chair) was ambrosial. Being in a hurry to get to the
end of my journey, I did not stay more than half a day, but
started by diligence for Damascus, a journey of some thirteen
hours, first over Lebanon itself (which is fine, but by no means
grand as I had hoped), then across the Valley of Coelesyria, and
lastly over Antilebanon, at the foot of which the town lies. At
the last relay I found waiting for me a horse and dragoman, for
which and whom I had telegraphed in order that I might get the
famous view of Damascus about which travellers have told wonders
from time immemorial, and which is only to be seen from a bridle
path over the hill above the suburb of Sala'aijeh; unfortunately
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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