The places I have visited so far are Salisbury, Exeter, and Bideford; with the latter I was much disappointed, and think it far below its reputation; not so Salisbury, which is a most interesting town, full of quaintness and character beyond my expectations; it has, however, a look of decay and depopulation about it which makes me feel awfully low-spirited. The Cathedral, perhaps, _altogether_ rather disappointed me--though of course much about it is very beautiful; then, too, its general (internal) aspect is entirely marred by a brutal coat of whitewash laid on in the last century, covering up the marble columns and killing out all life and colour. Unfortunately, it would cost very many thousands to restore the church and its ancient glories. To-morrow I start for Ilfracombe--the next day for Lynton. Again, later:-- Many thanks for your letter just received and for all the kind wishes therein contained, which I most warmly return for you all--a double portion to dear Taily in honour of her birthday. I will come on the 8th if I possibly can, and bring some little sketches to show you. I shall exhibit this year IF I get done in time, but I can't hurry--it is entirely immaterial whether I exhibit or not--I would rather, of course. We have begun drilling, but it will be many weeks before we get to rifle-shooting--this is the sort of thing we are doing now. Our uniform is plainness itself, all grey, and the cheapest in London. I weather the cold so-so--I have a gas-stove beside my fireplace, but am still tolerably cold when it comes very sharp. My dinner with Millais was put off till Monday next--I think Millais _charming_ and _so_ handsome. I am exceedingly sorry, dear Mamma, you have reckoned on me for cotillon figures--with the exception of the one I led at Bath once, _I have not seen one for years_, and have not the faintest notion what is done--I will, however, _back_ anybody else with great zeal. I was indeed truly sorry to hear of Lord Holland's death--I had expected it for some time; nothing could exceed their kindness to me, and the House is an irreparable loss to me. I hope to have a very merry Christmas Day. I am running down to Westbury (the Sartoris); there is to be a tree; I come up again of course Monday morning. I am never _ill_. I take my human frailty out in never being very well--never equal to much fatigue. LONDON, 1861. My dinner at Millais' yesterday was very pleasant. I like him extremely, and his wife appears an agreeable person. I met there John Leech, the man who does all those admirable caricatures in _Punch_--he is a very pleasant and gentleman-like person.