The Life of Captain Sir Richard F. Burton, volume 2 (of 2): By His Wife, Isabel BurtonBurton, Isabel, Lady
History
The Life of Captain Sir Richard F. Burton, volume 2 (of 2): By His Wife, Isabel Burton
Burton, Isabel, Lady
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir, 1821-1890; Explorers -- Great Britain -- Biography; Scholars -- Great Britain -- Biography
The crowd, seething and frying in the gorgeous glare of the tropical
sun, is as remarkable as the houses which lodge it. Konkani Moslems,
Persian Shí'ahs, Bohrahs, Arabs from the Persian Gulf, or from the
stables of Abd el Rahman or Ali bin Abdullah, Afghans, Beloch Sindis,
and Brahmins and Mahmans, schismatic Shí'ahs and Khiyahi and Wáhhabis,
Hindú women in wonderful colours, the best-dressed women in India,
making the place look like a garden with their bright-coloured _sáris_.
A great object of curiosity is the variety of turban, every size and
shape, every colour and manner of wearing--some of the size of a
good-sized tea-table; some fit the head tight, some are red and horned,
some are worn straight, and some are jauntily cocked sideways. There is
the Pattewála (the local Janissary), the dark Portuguese, the Sisters
of Mary and Joseph, in black robes and white-frilled caps, gliding
meekly in and out the crowd, Souters canaries (policemen), Sepoy
riflemen, the Bheestie under his huge water-skin, Sulaymanis (Afghans)
from the hills, and Rohillas, also hill-men. After being there a week
one begins to learn the _tilak_--the Hindú forehead mark, the sign
that denotes his caste; and we saw eight various sorts. The colouring
of this crowd is truly wonderful, and the Hindú waggon, a painted box
on wheels, dating from the year 1, completes the scene. Nowhere in the
world, except perhaps at Damascus, are there so many varieties of race,
nationality, and religion as in Bombay.
MÁHÁBÁLESHWAR.
Máhábáleshwar is the favourite of all the sanitaria save the
Neilgherries, which, fortunately for the other poor stations, is
eight or ten days' journey by sea and land, very expensive, and rough
travelling for invalids. We took a ticket to Bassein, and to our right
were the far-famed Kanheri Caves (called "Kennery" by the English),
which are very like those of Karla. There are plenty of places which
could be advantageously converted into sanitaria--Khandála, Lanáuli,
Sinhgarh, Purunbhur, Punalla near Colapur, and Kalsabai in the Deccan,
and Tunga in the Northern Konkan. _It is no use waiting until you are
sick to look for sanitaria_; while you are healthy seek them all out,
and find which suits you best.
No private family can form a sanitarium. Some great official must
go there with all his Staff; then bungalows, inns, necessaries, and
comforts begin to grow; roads have to be cleared, water looked after,
wild beasts to be hunted out, regular supplies for man and beast to be
sent from the next greatest town, and things come round of themselves.
Máhábáleshwar was made by Sir John Malcolm, Governor of Bombay 1827-30.
To reach it you have first got to make for Poonah, and after that you
have to go seventy-five miles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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