The Life of Captain Sir Richard F. Burton, volume 2 (of 2): By His Wife, Isabel BurtonBurton, Isabel, Lady
History
The Life of Captain Sir Richard F. Burton, volume 2 (of 2): By His Wife, Isabel Burton
Burton, Isabel, Lady
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir, 1821-1890; Explorers -- Great Britain -- Biography; Scholars -- Great Britain -- Biography
The body of St. Francis Xavier is in a magnificently carved silver
sarcophagus placed on a splendid base of black marble. On the
sarcophagus are beautifully cast alto-relievi, representing the various
acts of his life and death, all surmounted by a gold and silver top.
The actual body of the saint is inside, in a gold shell, and is shown
to the people once in a century on the 3rd of December. The last time
was in 1878; the body was found in its normal state of freshness. There
is a real old portrait of him in oils outside his chapel, done in 1552.
A print found in rags in a convent dusthole is so like it, that I put
it together, brought it home, and had it copied.
We used always to leave our vehicle here, and have the pony taken out
and fed, watered, and rested, whilst we scrambled all the day over the
hills, looking at the different remnants of Churches and Monasteries.
The site of the once so-called "Holy Office" is on the right hand of
the Cathedral and the Archbishop's Palace, a heap of ruins, covered
with luxuriant growth, and poisonous plants and thorns; not one
stone left upon another; not a wholesome shrub springs between the
fragments of masonry which, broken and blackened with decay, are left
to encumber the soil, as unworthy of being removed, or contaminating
another building with their curse. You must not think we walked through
comfortable paved streets to these different buildings, of which I only
mention two, but there were dozens. We scrambled through woods, over
hill and dale, and the distances tell us how large Goa must have been,
especially ascending a stony Scala Santa through briars and brambles
to the place where the victims used to be scourged. There was the
chapel where Xavier first started a school and a chapel for converting
and preaching, where he used to educate children; and hard by was the
well where he took his morning bath. It is like the Arab's "City with
impenetrable gates, still, without a voice or cheery inhabitant; the
owl hooting in its quarters, and night-birds skimming in circles in
its ruins, and the raven croaking in its great thoroughfare-streets,
as if bewailing those that had been in it." How thirsty we used to be!
But at the sight of a bit of silver, boys would climb the trees like
monkeys, pick off cocoanuts, chop off the little round piece at the
top, and hand them to us to drink. How beautifully white the inside
of the nut; how refreshing the milk, clean and cold as ice! Each nut
containing enough to quench the greatest thirst, leaving a refreshing
coolness in the mouth, throat, and interior. In a dry, parched, thirsty
land without water, there is drink for you at the top of the trees that
shade you--harmless drink, iced by nature.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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