The Life of Captain Sir Richard F. Burton, volume 2 (of 2): By His Wife, Isabel BurtonBurton, Isabel, Lady
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The Life of Captain Sir Richard F. Burton, volume 2 (of 2): By His Wife, Isabel Burton
Burton, Isabel, Lady
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir, 1821-1890; Explorers -- Great Britain -- Biography; Scholars -- Great Britain -- Biography
Suffice it to say, that the simplicity of a theatre in the open air was
most realistic, and made one think of the old early Latin and Greek
plays, and the miracle-plays of early Christianity. The men acted
beautifully; the women were cold or shy, and therefore uninteresting.
I can only say that I thanked God for having been allowed to see it,
and as we sat together Richard watched me closely to see what affected
me, and I did the same with him. What affected him immensely--and
he owned it--was Christ on the Cross. He said, "I never could have
_imagined_ Christ on the Cross without _seeing_ it; it made me feel
very queer." Now, as to _me_, what broke my heart was the repentances
of the sinners, and I am not ashamed to say that I sobbed bitterly--not
Magdalen's, for she was too cold, but Peter's, when Christ came forth
with the Cross, after he had denied Him and Christ looked at him. The
penitent thief on the Cross, and Judas's despair, I shall never forget
all my life. With all Richard's cynicism, he was right glad to have
seen it.
We went to visit the _Pfarrer_, or priest, the only really paramount
influence in Ober-Ammergau. We saw Josef Maier, who acted the Christ,
and with his permission went to inspect the scenes behind the theatre,
where they were practising fastening to the Cross, and, under strict
secrecy, we saw how it was done.
On the 25th was the _fête_ of St. Louis, when they celebrate the
foundation of Bavaria, _then_ seven hundred years before. On return
to Munich we dined at the Embassy. We met in Munich the Dowager Lady
Stanley and Mrs. John Stanley (now Lady Jeune), and found to our great
annoyance that we had just missed Lord Houghton, who had been staying
in the same hotel with us and we had never known it. We then went to
Innsbrück, where we saw everything in and about, and on to Toblach,
from whence three hours' drive takes you into the Dolomites into lovely
scenery, beginning at Cortina di Ampezzo. Here we found actual winter
weather, though it was only the 30th of August. From this we went on to
Villach, a delightful place, where it was very difficult to get rooms;
but we got some beds at a _Braüerei_. Here we saw, as usual, everything
in and about, and then we went by the glorious new road Tarvis and
Pont' Ebba (not so very long open), with scenery unrivalled, and
reached Udine, where we were on the main line for our own home. Here we
stayed to visit the tomb of Fra Oderico, a Franciscan monk, who went to
China and wrote a book three centuries ago--a very holy man--and then
we went home to Trieste to receive our old friends Mr. Aubertin, Sir
Charles Sebright, the Dowager Lady Stanley of Alderley, with Mrs. John
Stanley, who stayed a couple of days _en route_ for Corfu. The Dowager
Lady Stanley was one of Richard's oldest and best friends, and she has
proved herself one to me since his death. I cannot say how much we
enjoyed their visit.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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