The Life of Captain Sir Richard F. Burton, volume 2 (of 2): By His Wife, Isabel BurtonBurton, Isabel, Lady
History
The Life of Captain Sir Richard F. Burton, volume 2 (of 2): By His Wife, Isabel Burton
Burton, Isabel, Lady
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir, 1821-1890; Explorers -- Great Britain -- Biography; Scholars -- Great Britain -- Biography
We made delightful excursions both in Marocco and about Gibraltar. We
saw a great deal of Sir John and Lady Drummond-Hay, who was a very
sweet woman, and their charming daughter, Miss Alice Drummond-Hay. We
thought the Embassy a miserable little house, after the Palazzone at
Trieste. The streets were muddy and dirty, all uphill, all horribly
stony, like Khaifa. I thought the people in Tangier itself, looked
poor, miserable, dirty, diseased, and trodden down, and you must go out
very far to find anything like a fine race. After Damascus, and all the
other Eastern places I had seen, I thought it horrid, and was sorely
disappointed--I had heard it so raved about; but I would willingly have
lived there, and put out all my best capabilities, if my husband could
have got the place that he wanted, and for which I had employed every
bit of interest we had on his side or mine to obtain, but in vain. I
sometimes now think that it was better so, and that he would not have
lived so long, had he had it, for he was decidedly breaking up. The
climate did not appear to be the one that suited him, and the anxiety
and responsibilities of the post might have hurried on the catastrophe
that happened in the following year, 1887. It was for the honour of the
thing, and we saw for ourselves how uneasy a crown it would be.
He remarks in his journal--
"My wife and I left the foul harbour-town, the 'Home of Dulness,'
and passed a pleasant week at the 'Rock,' enjoying the hospitable
society of our fellow-countrymen. I failed in certain _pour-parlers_
concerning the treasure-ship sunk in Vigo Bay. The officer who claimed
to know the true position was unduly cautious, and the right was his,
more than mine. I endeavoured, but again in vain, to excite some local
interest in the ruins of Karteia, the Biblical Tarshish, famed for
ships. A local antiquary had made a charming collection of statuettes,
and other works of Greek art, by scraping the tumuli which line the
two banks of the Guadarrangua, _alias_ First River, and which now
represent the magnificent docks described by Strabo. He could not but
remark the utter inadequacy of the defences, so famed throughout the
civilized world. Fifty years ago they might have been sufficient,
but now they have fallen long behind the age, and could not defend
themselves against a single ironclad. The fact is now generally
recognized.
[Sidenote: _A Bad Hurricane at Sea_.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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