Nightingale, Florence, 1820-1910; Nurses -- England -- Biography
Often in these days of returning strength she would stroll beneath the
trees of the cemetery of Scutari, where so many of our brave men lay.
It is situated on a promontory high above the sea, with a fine outlook
over the Bosphorus. Flowers planted by loving hands were decking the
graves of many of her friends who had passed away during the winter,
and the grasses had begun to wave above the deep pits where the
soldiers lay in a nameless grave. During these walks Miss Nightingale
gathered a few flowers here, a bunch of grasses there, and pressed and
dried them, to keep in loving memory of the brave dead. They eventually
formed part of a collection of Crimean mementoes which she arranged
after her return home to Lea Hurst.
This burying-ground was really a portion of the ancient cemetery
of Scutari, the most sacred and celebrated in the Ottoman Empire.
Travellers have described the weird effect of the dense masses of
cypress-trees, which bend and wave over three miles of unnumbered
tombs, increasing each year in extent. The Turks never disturb their
dead, and regard a burying-ground with great veneration, hence the
ancient and yet modern character of the Scutari cemetery, and the
great extent of the graves over the wide solitude. So thick are the
cypress-trees that even the Oriental sun does not penetrate their
shade. Byron has described the scene as--
The place of thousand tombs
That shine beneath, while dark above
The sad but living cypress glooms
And withers not, though branch and leaf
Are stamped by an eternal grief.
According to a poetic legend, myriads of strange birds hover over the
tombs, or flit noiselessly from the Black Sea to the fairer one of
Marmora, when they turn and retrace their flight. These birds have
never been known to stop or feed, and never heard to sing. They have a
dark plumage, in unison with the sombre cypress-trees over which they
incessantly flit. When there is a storm on the Bosphorus, they send
up sharp cries of agony. The Turks believe that the weird birds are
condemned souls who have lived an evil life in this world, and are not
permitted to rest in a tomb, and so in a spirit of unrest they wander
over the tombs of others. One of the most beautiful monuments in the
vast cemetery is the one which marks the grave of Sultan Mahmoud’s
favourite horse.
The Turkish Government gave a piece of ground adjacent to the sacred
cemetery to serve as a burying-place for the British soldiers who fell
in the Crimea. And it was at the instance of Miss Nightingale that a
memorial was erected there to the fallen heroes. She started the scheme
during her period of convalescence at Scutari, and it was completed
after the conclusion of the war. Some four thousand British soldiers
lie in the cemetery, and in the midst of the nameless graves rises a
gleaming column of marble. The shaft is supported by four angels with
drooping wings. On each side of the base is inscribed in four different
languages:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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