“A grand piano and a large hall are the extent of your needs. But a poor travelling composer like myself depends upon a combination most difficult to arrange and at any moment liable to be upset. How much thought, precaution, fatigue it all requires. Yet look at the reward! “Think of the compensation of _playing on an orchestra_, of having under one’s hand this vast living instrument! “You _virtuosi_ are princes and kings by the grace of God, you are born on the steps of the throne; we composers must fight and conquer before we reign. Yet the difficulties and dangers surmounted add brilliance to our victories, and we should perhaps be happier than you--if we always had soldiers. “But this is a digression. “At Stuttgart I waited, hardly knowing what plans to make, until a favourable answer came to my letter of enquiry addressed to Weimar. Meanwhile I had another experience of the coldness of Germans towards Beethoven. “Lindpaintner conducted a magnificent performance of the Leonore overture at the Redoute Society’s concert, which elicited but the faintest applause, and I heard a gentleman say afterwards that he wished they would give Haydn’s symphonies instead of that noisy music without any tune in it!!! “Really now, we do not own such Philistines as that in Paris! “I went to Weimar _via_ Carlsruhe (where there was nothing to be done) and Mannheim--a cold, calm, respectable town, where love of music will never keep the inhabitants awake. “The younger Lachner, a real artist, both modest and talented, is director there; he hurriedly arranged a concert for me, and was deeply grieved because the ineptitude of his trombones forbade our giving the _Orgie_ in _Harold_. “Mannheim bored me horribly, and it was an intense relief to get away and breathe freely once more. “Behold me then again afloat on the Rhine--I meet Guhr, still swearing--I leave him--meet our friend Hiller, who tells me his _Fall of Jerusalem_ is ready--I leave, in company with a magnificent sore throat--sleep on the way--dream frightful things that I will not repeat--reach Weimar, thoroughly ill--Lobe and Chélard try in vain to prop me up--preparations for concert--first rehearsal--I rejoice and am cured. “There is something broad, cultivated, liberal about the very air of Weimar. Calm, luminous, peaceful, dreamy--how my heart beat as I paced the streets!