Wednesday. After long trudge found ‘voiture de grande remise’ 4 frs.
the hour, drove by Luxembourg, Notre Dame, Sainte Chapelle, etc. (Not
allowed to lift written scrap from street from heap of ruins by side
of Palais de Justice.) Great order and quiet everywhere and civility.
Pantheon dinted with ‘obus’. Hotel de Ville gutted, (with all
registers, etc.)—Tuileries, and Palais de Justice Ditto. Ministère de
Finances even more utterly in ruins, and houses here and there,—e.g.
in Rue Royale by Madeleine and elsewhere.
Hotel de Clugny incendie but unhurt. All along streets notice holes to
cellars stopped up with plaster for fear of petroleum.
Thursday. Drove by Champs Elysées, to Champ de Mars, Porte de Neuilly
(where such destruction from bombs, etc., vault of railway crashed
in,—trees in splinters, etc.) Then by Quaies, into Place de Carrousel
between Tuileries and Louvre to Bastille Column and (through bad parts
of town ...) to Père la Chaise, with its horrible trenches filled with
hundreds of bodies and soaked black with petroleum (clothes, etc.,
burnt over them?).
Then that ghastly corner where 250 and 140 (‘4, 5 femmes,’) were shot
‘en pleine vigueur’ crying ‘Vive la République!’ as a keen young
fossier told with evident sympathy, he having had to stand by,—see the
firing, and bury the results.
Today Friday, 16th. The Petit Moniteur gives a horrible circular (torn
down last night in the Rue Rochechouard) inciting ‘Travailleurs from
every country to join against priests, soldiers and tyrants, and
succeed, or nous nous ensevelirons sous les ruines de Paris!’
Fancy crying for fresh bloodshed when steeped in it to the lips now!
Some Frenchwomen at table curiously indignant at our small care about
English ‘communists’,—quite unable to understand how the solidarity of
national sentiment made such as these late events impossible in
England, and then, when I mildly said so, shooting at me:—‘Pourtant,
la Révolution où on a tué votre roi!’!!”
“Monday 20th. Went to Versailles to see the Chambre;—unpunctual
sitting, I only present during some minutes of debate. Given ticket in
‘D’ by President Grévy.
6.30. Left Paris via Dieppe. 8 hours roughish sea.
Tuesday. Brighton.”
So there was no Heidelberg after all,—no sitting on the brow of the hill
to look down on the valley of the Neckar, and recall _ces jours heureux
où nous étions si misérables_. We are not told why S.J.-B.’s holiday was
cut so short: perhaps railway communication was broken for the moment,
and it proved impossible to proceed: but in any case it may be that the
intense and unexpected picture of carnage and strife served to take her
more completely out of herself and her worries than the more peaceful
experience she would have chosen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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