from that through which they had hitherto generally passed. Instead of
the treeless plains or unfertile deserts which they had traversed in
the northern parts of Irak, they saw before them a country strongly
resembling Europe; mountains, deep well-wooded valleys, or rich green
plains rapidly alternating with each other, and the whole, watered by
abundant streams and fountains, refreshed and delighted the eye; and he
was as yet unconscious of the insalubrity of the atmosphere.
Pietro, who, like Petronius, was an “elegans formarum spectator,” greatly
admired the beauty and graceful figures of the women of this province,—a
fact which makes strongly against the idea of its being unhealthy; for
it may generally be inferred, that wherever the women are handsome the
air is good. Here and there they observed, as they moved along, the
ruins of castles and fortresses on the acclivities and projections of the
mountains, which had formerly served as retreats to numerous chiefs who
had there aimed at independence. A grotto, which they discovered in a
nearly inaccessible position in the face of a mountain, was pointed out
to them as the residence of a virgin of gigantic stature, who, without
associates or followers, like the virago who obstructed the passage
of Theseus from Trœzene to Athens, formerly ravaged and depopulated
that part of the country. This and similar legends of giants, which
resemble those which prevail among all rude nations, were related to
our traveller, who rejected them with disdain as utterly fabulous and
contemptible, though not much more so, perhaps, than some which, as a
true son of the Roman church, he no doubt held in reverence.
At length, after considerable fatigue, they arrived at Ferhabad, a small
port built by the Shah Abbas on the Caspian Sea. Here the governor of
the city, when informed of his arrival, assigned him a house in the
eastern quarter of the city, the rooms of which, says Pietro, were so
low, that although by no means a tall man, he could touch the ceiling
with his hand. If the house, however, reminded him of the huts erected by
Romulus on the Capitoline, the garden, on the other hand, was delightful,
being a large space of ground thickly planted with white mulberry-trees,
and lying close upon the bank of the river. Here he passed the greater
portion of his time with Actius Sincerus, or Marcus Aurelius, or
Ferrari’s Geographical Epitome in his hand, now offering sacrifices to
the Muses, and now running over with his eye the various countries and
provinces which he was proud to have travelled over. One of his favourite
occupations was the putting of his own adventures into verse, under a
feigned name. This he did in that _terza rima_ which Dante’s example
had made respectable, but not popular, in Italy; and as he was not of
the humour to hide his talent under a bushel, his brain was no sooner
delivered of this conceit than he despatched it to Rome for the amusement
of his friends.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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