During his long residence in India our traveller twice visited Bengal.
Of his first journey into that province the date is unknown, but his
second visit took place in 1667, the year in which he finally quitted the
country. He seems, on this occasion, to have approached the place by sea,
for we first find him coasting along the Sunderbund in a small native
bark, with seven rowers, in which he ascended by one of the western
branches of the Ganges to the town of Hoogly. The beauty of this immense
delta, divided into innumerable islands by the various arms of the
stream, and covered by a vegetation luxuriant even to rankness, delighted
him exceedingly. Even then, however, many of these romantic isles had
been deserted, owing principally to the dread of the pirates who infested
the coast; and as in India the spots which cultivation abandons quickly
become the abode of pestilential miasmata, which thenceforward forbid the
residence of man, no one now ventured to disturb the tigers and their
prey, which had taken possession of the soil. It was here that for the
third time in his life he enjoyed the sight of that rare phenomenon, a
lunar rainbow. He had caused his boat to be fastened to the branch of a
tree, as far as possible from the shore, through dread of the tigers,
and was himself keeping watch. The moon, then near its full, was shining
serenely in the western sky, when, turning his eyes towards the opposite
quarter, he beheld a pale, bright arch, spanning the earth, and looking
like a phantom of the glorious bow which, impregnated with the rich light
of the sun, gladdens the eye with its brilliant colours by day. Next
night the phenomenon was repeated; and on the fourth evening another
spectacle, now familiar to most readers by description, delighted our
traveller and his boat’s crew. The woods on both sides of the stream
seemed suddenly to be illuminated by a shower of fire, and glowed as
if they had been clothed with leaves of moving flames. There was not a
breath of wind stirring, and the heat was intense. This added to the
effect of the scene; for as the countless little fires streamed hither
and thither in columns, or separated, and fell like drops of rain, or
rose thick like the sparks of a furnace, the two Portuguese pilots whom
our traveller had taken on board, imagined they were so many demons. To
add to the effect of this exhibition of fireflies, for, as the reader
will have foreseen, it was they who were the actors, the swampy soil
sent up a number of those earthly meteors which often glide over large
morasses, some in the form of globes, which rose and fell slowly, like
enormous rockets, while others assumed the shape of a tree of fire.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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