On arriving at Isgaour, in Mingrelia, the place where the general
market of the country is held, Chardin naturally expected to find human
dwellings, with provisions, and such other necessaries as in civilized
countries are everywhere attainable for money. In this hope he went
on shore, accompanied by the Greek merchant, who had hitherto been in
a manner his guardian angel; but on entering the place, they indeed
found two long rows of huts formed of the branches of trees, where
merchandise and provisions had once been exposed for sale, but now empty
and deserted. In the vicinity of the place neither house nor habitation
appeared as far as the eye could reach. Two or three peasants, however,
who flitted about like spectres among the deserted huts, engaged to bring
on the morrow a quantity of that species of grain called _gom_, which is
bruised, boiled, and eaten instead of bread, together with wine and other
provisions. There being no alternative, they were compelled to rely on
the promises of these men, as they were nearly in want of every necessary
of life; but their presents failing them, it became necessary to
dissemble with his servants, who already began to murmur aloud and curse
the persons by whose advice he had taken the route of the Black Sea,
relying for the future upon the bounty of Providence. The reason why the
market of Isgaour was thus deserted was, that the Abcas, a neighbouring
people of savage character and barbarous manners, having made an
irruption into the country, were now ravaging it with fire and sword,
while the peasantry and their lords were flying before them in dismay, or
plunging for refuge into the deepest recesses of their forests. Ten days
after their arrival these savages passed along the shore in search of
plunder; and finding none in this celebrated market, set the huts on fire
and reduced them to ashes.
In this dilemma, Chardin had much difficulty in determining what course
to take. He had immediately on landing applied for aid to the Catholic
missionaries of Colchis, the chief of whom promised in reply to be with
him by a certain day, but failed in his engagement; and when after a
second application he repaired to the place of rendezvous, it was less
with the design of forwarding our traveller’s views than of dissuading
him from attempting the journey at all. Perceiving, however, that his
advice could not be followed, he rendered the travellers every service
in his power with alacrity, but without in the least concealing the
magnitude of the danger they were about to incur.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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