Next morning they continued their route, at first through a mountainous
and desert country buried in snow, and afterward through a plain of
milder temperature, but both equally uninhabited, no living creature
making its appearance, excepting a number of eagles perched upon the
summits of the heights, and here and there a flock of antelopes browsing
upon the plain. Lodging this night also in a caravansary in the desert,
and proceeding next day through similar scenes, they arrived in the
afternoon at Baku. The aspect of this city, the narrowness of the gate,
the strange ornaments of the walls, the peculiarity of the site, the
structure of the houses, the squalid countenances of the inhabitants,
and the novelty of every object which presented itself, inspired our
traveller with astonishment. It happening to be market-day, the streets
were crowded with people, who, being little accustomed to strangers,
and having never before seen a negro, crowded obstreperously around
the travellers, and followed them with hooting, shouting, and clamour
to their lodgings. An old man, who had officiously undertaken to
provide them with an apartment, conducted them through the mob of his
townsfolk, which was every moment becoming more dense, to a small mud
hut, situated in a deserted part of the city, and from its dismal and
miserable appearance, rather resembling the den of a wild beast than a
human dwelling. Having entered this new cave of Trophonius, and shut the
door behind them, the travellers, as Kæmpfer jocosely observes, began to
offer up their thanks to the tutelary god of the place, for affording
them an asylum from the insolence of the rabble. But their triumph was
premature. The mob, whose curiosity was by no means to be satisfied with
a passing glance, ascended the roof of the den in crowds, and before the
travellers could spread out their carpets and lie down, the crashing
roof, the lattices broken, and the door, which they had fastened with a
beam, violently battered, warned them that it was necessary to escape
before they should be overwhelmed by the ruins. It was now thought
advisable that they should endeavour, by exhibiting themselves and their
Ethiopian interpreter, whom the Bakuares unquestionably mistook for
some near relation of the devil’s, to conciliate their persecutors, and
purchase the privilege of sleeping in peace. They therefore removed the
beam, and issuing forth, Abyssinian and all, into the midst of the crowd,
allowed them time to gaze until they were tired. Presently after this the
governor of the city arrived; but, instead of affording his protection
to the strangers, as a man in his station should have done, he accused
them of being spies, and having overwhelmed them with menaces, which he
seems to have uttered for the purpose of enhancing his own dignity in the
estimation of the multitude, departed, leaving them to enact the spies at
their discretion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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