unlock the doors of the tomb, and allow the infidels to deposite their
baggage in it; but with respect to themselves, it was decreed by the
remorseless villagers that they were to pass the night _sub Jove_. When
our travellers saw the door opened, however, they began secretly to laugh
at the beards of the honest zealots, being resolved, as soon as sleep
should have wrapped itself round these poor people like a cloak, as
Sancho words it, to steal quietly into the tomb, and dream for once upon
a holy grave. They did so; but either the anger of the sheïkh or their
wet garments caused them to pass but a melancholy night.
Next morning, the waters of the river, which rose and fell with equal
rapidity, having sunk to their ordinary level, they issued forth from
their sacred apartments, and proceeding westward for some time, they at
length ascended a lofty eminence, from whence, across a wide and fertile
plain, they discovered the city of Latichen, founded by Seleucus Nicator
on the margin of the sea. Leaving this city and the Mediterranean on the
right-hand, and a high ridge of mountains on the left, they proceeded
through the plain towards Gibili, the ancient Gabala, where they arrived
in the evening, and remained one day to recruit themselves. In the hills
near this city were found the extraordinary sect of the Nessariah, which
still subsists, and are supposed to be a remnant of the ancient pagan
population, worshippers of Venus-Mylitta and the sun.
Proceeding southward along the seacoast they crossed the Nahrel-Melek,
or King’s River, passed through Baneas, the ancient Balanea, and arrived
towards sunset at Tortosa, the Orthosia of antiquity, erected on the edge
of a fertile plain so close to the sea that the spray still dashes among
its crumbling monuments. Continuing their journey towards Tripoli, they
beheld on their right, at about three miles’ distance from the shore,
the little island of Ruad, the Arvad or Alphad of the Scriptures, and
the Andus of the Greeks and Romans, a place which, though not above two
or three furlongs in length, was once renowned for its distant naval
expeditions and immense commerce, in which it maintained for a time a
rivalry even with Tyre and Sidon themselves. Having travelled thus far
by forced marches, as it were, they determined to remain a whole week at
Tripoli, to repose their “wearied virtue,” and by eating good dinners
and making merry with their friends, prepare themselves for the enduring
of those “slings and arrows of outrageous fortune,” which all flesh,
but especially travelling flesh, is heir to. But the more fortunate and
happy the hero of the narrative happens to be, the more unfortunate and
melancholy is his biographer, for happiness is extremely dull and insipid
to every one except the individual who tastes it. For this reason we
hurry as fast as possible over all the bright passages of a man’s life,
but dwell with delight on his sufferings, his perils, his hair-breadth
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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