The dinner to which they were shortly after invited by the keeper of the
great seal was more magnificent than that given them by the shah. “Soon
after we entered,” says Bell, “there were served up a great variety of
sweetmeats, and all kinds of fruit that the climate afforded. Coffee and
sherbet were carried about by turns. We were placed cross-legged on the
carpets, except the ambassador, who had a seat. During this part of the
feast we were entertained with vocal and instrumental music, dancing
boys, tumblers, puppets, and jugglers. All the performers executed their
parts with great dexterity. Two of them counterfeited a quarrel, one
beat off the other’s turban with his foot, out of which dropped about
fifteen or twenty large serpents, which ran or crawled about the room.
One of them came towards me with great speed, which soon obliged me to
quit my place. On seeing us alarmed, they told us the creatures were
altogether inoffensive, as their teeth had been all drawn out. The
fellow went about the room, and gathered them again into his turban,
like so many eels. The victuals were now served in a neat and elegant
manner. Every thing was well dressed in the Persian fashion. Our host
was very cheerful, and contributed every thing in his power to please
his guests. He excused himself handsomely enough for not having wine, as
it was not then used at court.”
Two days after this the ambassador received intimation, that the
business of the embassy being concluded, he might depart when he
pleased; but the Russ, who seems to have relished the pilaus of Ispahan,
would have been better pleased to have remained where he was the whole
year. However, it being clear that the disciples of Ali by no means
participated in his feelings, he unwillingly prepared to encounter once
more his native fogs and snows. They left Ispahan on the 1st of
September, and proceeded through Kasbin and Ghilān towards Shamakia. At
Kasbin many of the ambassador’s suite, and Bell among the number, were
attacked by a pestilential fever, which appears to have been the plague;
but they all, excepting one person, recovered. They, however, lost
twenty-two of their number before they finally quitted the Persian
dominions.
It being the depth of winter when the ambassador arrived at Shamakia, he
resolved to remain there until the following summer, time, in his
opinion, being of little value. Accordingly it was not until the 26th of
June that they embarked on the Caspian. Their journey homewards was long
and tedious; but they at length reached Petersburg on the 30th of
December, 1718; having consumed nearly three years and a half in going
to and returning from Ispahan.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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