On the 17th of March, the weather, as they began to approach the Baikal
lake, changed so suddenly from winter to spring that they almost
imagined themselves dropped imperceptibly into another climate. They
therefore abandoned their sledges, which, as the snow was gone, were now
become useless, and proceeded on horseback. Next day they arrived at
Irkutsk on the river Angara. Here they remained until the 15th of May,
waiting for the melting of the ice on the lake; and amusing themselves
in the meanwhile with hunting, and observing the country and its
inhabitants.
When the season was thought to be sufficiently far advanced, they
proceeded up the banks of the river, until they discovered the lake
bursting out between two high rocks, and tumbling down over enormous
stones which lie quite across the channel of the river, which is here a
mile in breadth. The sublimity of the scene, which is magnificent beyond
description, is heightened exceedingly by the dashing and roaring of the
waters, which impress the beholder with ideas of the irresistible power
and grandeur of nature, the privilege to contemplate which elevates and
ennobles him in his own estimation. And this, in reality, is the
principal source of the pleasure we derive from the view of stupendous
mountains, the tempestuous ocean, cataracts, volcanoes, or
conflagrations.
They now embarked on the Baikal, which, as Gibbon facetiously observes,
disdains the modest appellation of a lake, and on receding from the land
enjoyed a full prospect of its western shores, rising abruptly into
rocky pinnacles capped with snow, and towering far above every thing
around them. These stretched away immeasurably towards the north, until
they were lost in the distance. On the south the view was bounded by
hills of gentler elevation, whose tops, for the most part, were covered
with wood. Their passage was tedious, for on approaching the mouth of
the Selinga they found the whole shore skirted by long reefs of floating
icebergs, between which they forced their way with considerable
difficulty. However, they at length entered the Selinga, and ascending
partly in their boats and partly on horseback along its banks, arrived
safely at Selinguisky on the 29th of May.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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