They now entered upon that vast table-land which was found by the
Jesuits to be three thousand geometrical paces above the level of the
sea, from which the mountains forming its southern boundary serve but as
steps by which the traveller may descend to the low plains of China. The
small undulations or eminences which break the uniformity of these vast
steppes are covered with the rhubarb plant, which grows there
spontaneously, and is propagated more rapidly by the aid of the marmot,
which, burrowing in prodigious numbers at its roots, loosens the mould,
and prepares it for the reception of the seeds. The roots are dug up for
exportation by the Mongols, who carelessly bore holes through them, and
hang them about their tents or on the horns of their sheep to dry.
After passing the Tula, no river again occurred north of the Great Wall.
The mode of travelling here resembles, in some degree, that which
prevails in the deserts of Arabia and Africa, except that the walls are
more frequent, and the danger from marauders little or none. Their food,
after the first few days, consisted of mutton only; but as this was of
an excellent quality, the circumstance was not considered as a great
hardship. In the course of their journey they traversed a large plain,
thickly strewed with transparent red and yellow pebbles, which glittered
beautifully in the sun, and were said to be cornelians and yellow
sapphires, being hard, and taking a fine polish. The few Mongols whom
they found wandering with their flocks and herds over the waste,
appeared more contented and happy than the possessors of the most
fertile soil; and this being the primitive, the freest, and perhaps the
most natural condition of man, the circumstance ought not to excite our
astonishment. The mere act of locomotion is pleasant to man, and in
pastoral tribes, accustomed to wandering from their infancy, it becomes
a passion, the gratification of which is happiness.
“On the 2d of November, about noon,” says Bell, “we could perceive the
famous wall, running along the tops of the mountains, towards the
north-east. One of our people cried out ‘land!’ as if we had been all
this while at sea. It was now, as nearly as I can compute, about forty
English miles from us, and appeared white at this distance.” The nearer
they approached the mountains, the more were they astonished at the
grandeur of this wall, which, as Voltaire very justly observes, makes no
inconsiderable figure even upon the map of the world. “The appearance of
it,” says our traveller, “running from one high rock to another, with
square towers at certain intervals, even at this distance, is most
magnificent.” In two days they arrived at the foot of this mighty
barrier, and entered through a great gate into China. Here a thousand
men were perpetually on guard, by the officers commanding whom they were
received with much politeness, and invited to tea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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