However, for the first few days extraordinary harmony prevailed. Visits
were made and returned; fireworks were exhibited by the English;
wrestling, boxing, and various other kinds of athletic exercises by the
savages. During this continuance of good-humour Ledyard obtained
permission to make a tour in the interior of the island, for the purpose
of examining the nature of the country, and of ascending, if possible,
the peak of _Mouna Roa_, which, though situated in an island not
exceeding ninety miles in diameter, is regarded as one of the loftiest
in the world. He was accompanied by the botanist and gunner of the
Resolution, and by a number of natives, some as guides, others to carry
the baggage. Admonished by the snows which glittered in dazzling
pinnacles on the summit of Mouna Roa, they provided themselves with
additional clothing to guard against the effects of a sudden transition
from the heat of a tropical sun to intense cold. Their road during the
first part of the journey lay through enclosed plantations of sweet
potatoes, with a soil of lava, tilled in some places with difficulty.
Here and there, in moist situations, were small patches of sugar-cane;
and these, as they proceeded, were followed by open plantations of
bread-fruit trees. The land now began to ascend abruptly, and was
thickly covered with wild fern. About sunset they arrived on the skirts
of the woods, which stretched round the mountain like a belt, at the
uniform distance of four or five miles from the shore. Here they found
an uninhabited hut, in which they passed the night.
Next morning, on entering the forests, they found there had been heavy
rain during the night, though none of it had reached them at the
distance of about two hundred yards. They traversed the woods by a
compass, keeping in a direct line for the peak; and, finding a beaten
track nearly in their course, were enabled on the second day to advance
about fifteen miles. At night they rested under the shelter of a fallen
tree, and early next morning recommenced their journey. It was soon
discovered, however, that the difficulties they had hitherto encountered
were ease itself compared with those against which they were now to
contend. To persons unaccustomed as they were to walk, a journey of so
great a length would, under any circumstances, have been a grievous
task. But they were impeded in their movements by heavy burdens; their
path was steep, broken, and rugged; and the farther they proceeded the
more dense and impenetrable did the thickets become. At length, it
became evident that the enterprise must be abandoned; and with those
unpleasant feelings which accompany baffled ambition, they returned by
the way they had gone to the ships.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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