It was about the middle of April when Forster arrived at Jummoo, where,
being supposed to be a merchant from whom some advantage might be
derived, he was received by a Kashmerian with truly oriental expressions
of welcome. Upon a banker in this city he had a bill for a considerable
amount; but on examining it he found, that having been frequently soaked
by the rain, and by his having fallen into a river on the way, the folds
adhered together as if they had been pasted. However, the banker
contrived, by steeping it in water, to decipher its import, and at once
paid the money; though its shattered condition might have afforded him a
sufficient pretext for delay. Being thus furnished with cash, our
traveller began to think of enjoying the pleasures of Jummoo.
The trade and consequent wealth of this city arose from the insecurity
of the road through Lahore, occasioned by the invasion of the Sikhs,
which caused merchants to prefer this tedious and difficult but secure
route. All articles of merchandise constituting the trade between
Kashmere and Jummoo are transported by men, principally Kashmerians, who
carry their extremely heavy burdens, two of which are considered a load
for a strong mule, upon their back, as a soldier does his knapsack. When
he desires to rest, the porter places under his pack a kind of short
crutch, which he uses in walking. “The shawls, when exported from
Kashmere, are packed in an oblong bale containing a certain weight or
quantity, which in the language of the country is termed a _biddery_,
the outward covering of which is a buffalo or ox’s hide, strongly sewed
with leather thongs. As these packages are supposed to amount, with
little variation, to a value long since ascertained, they are seldom
opened until conveyed to the destined market.”
On the 17th of April he set out on foot from Jummoo, accompanied by a
Kashmerian servant. The roads were steep and rocky; and not having been
much accustomed to travelling on foot, he soon found that it would be
necessary to proceed more slowly. His feet, in fact, like Bruce’s in the
desert of Nubia, were so severely bruised and excoriated, that he walked
with extreme pain and difficulty; though, somewhat to assuage his
sufferings, he had carefully wrapped them round with bandages steeped in
oil. However, the cool bracing air of the mountains, united with a
feeling of security, and the certainty of finding commodious lodgings
and a good supper at night, prevented his spirits from sinking; and
still further to invigorate his resolution, fancy ever and anon placed
before his mind the rich smiling landscapes and sparkling streams of
Kashmere.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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