The wool, when imported, is of a dark-gray colour, and is bleached in
Kashmere by means of a certain preparation of rice-flour. The whitest
down, which is said to be brought from Rodank, is reckoned the best, and
sells in the valley from ten to twenty rupees the turruk, about twelve
pounds. No exact estimate of the number of shawls manufactured in the
year can be made. There are said to be about sixteen thousand looms,
each occupying three men, employed; and supposing, with a contemporary
author, that five shawls on an average are made annually to each loom,
the total number would amount to eighty thousand. The shop of the
weavers consists of a kind of framework, at which the workmen sit on a
wooden bench. Two persons are employed on the plainest shawls, and the
number is sometimes doubled. The shuttle made use of is long, narrow,
and heavy. When the pattern of the shawl is variegated, the flowers of
figures are worked with wooden needles, there being a separate one for
every different-coloured thread; and in such cases the operation is
exceedingly slow.
“The _oostand_, or head-workman,” says Hamilton, “superintends, while
his journeymen are employed near him, under his directions. If they have
any new pattern in hand, or one with which they are not familiar, he
describes to them the figure, colour, and threads that are to be used,
while he keeps before him the pattern on which they happen to be
employed drawn on paper. During the operation the rough side of the
shawl is uppermost on the frame, notwithstanding which the head-workman
never mistakes the regularity of the most finished patterns. A shop may
be occupied with one shawl above a year, provided it be a remarkably
fine one, while other shops make six or eight in the course of that
time. Of the best and most noted sorts not so much as a quarter of an
inch is completed in one day by three persons, which is the usual number
employed. Shawls containing much work are made in separate pieces at
different shops; and it may be observed, that it very rarely happens,
when the pieces are completed, that they correspond in size.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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